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Chances are the wine enthusiast in your life has enough gadgets, stemware and reading material to fill a small pantry. What that person really needs (and probably secretly wants) is a bottle of mind-bending wine that isn't all that easy to get his or her hands on: a real gem, something that even a collector would cherish and proudly display.
This week's Wine Talk focus is on three reds that measure up, in my humble opinion. The Goldeneye pinot noir is one of the finest and most intriguing pinots I've tasted this year; the Kennan merlot is hands-down the finest merlot to cross my desk in the past 12 months; and the Stags' Leap Winery petite sirah is nothing less than a national treasure.
Happy hunting!
Goldeneye 2012 Pinot Noir, Gowan Creek, Anderson Valley ($82) -- The 2012 Gowan Creek pinot noir from Goldeneye is as interesting as it is stunning. This vintage shows a note of dark chocolate behind a wall of raspberry, dark cherry and blueberry fruit. The tannins are precise and smooth, making for a layered, complex, suave palate that leads into a seductive finish. It's an unusual pinot, but breathtaking in its nuance and complexity. Rating: 98.
Stags' Leap Winery 2012 Petite Sirah "Ne Cede Malis," Stag's Leap District ($90) -- On rare occasions I indulge myself in that California oddity, petite sirah. Typically it is hard as nails when young (though that model seems to be changing) and lacking in the subtle complexities and overall elegance that make cabernet sauvignon, and increasingly pinot noir, the money red grapes in California. When I choose not to shun petite, it's usually with good reason. And the best reason I can think of is the Stags' Leap Winery petite that has been by far California's finest petite for at least the past 30 years, probably longer. This wine from this estate is nothing less than a national treasure. The 2012 vintage is a blockbuster that shouldn't be missed, that is, if you can lay your hands on a bottle. Fewer than 1,000 cases were made. Rich and robust, with aromas of blackberry, black currant and dark cherry, it is well-proportioned yet has elegance and nuance, such as the scent of violets and a hint of black pepper. It is, simply, a wine for the ages, unique to California, in fact unique to this particular property. There's nothing else quite like it. Rating: 97.
Keenan 2012 Merlot, Mailbox Vineyard Reserve, Spring Mountain District ($68) -- Keenan's Mailbox Vineyard merlot is one of the stars of the 2012 vintage for this oft-dissed grape variety. It's a powerhouse, with layered aromas of dark plum and blackberry on the palate, impressive heft and a long, lingering, spicy finish that would do Pomerol proud. This muscular merlot needs another three to five years to settle down and show its best. Rating: 96.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Vistalba 2014 Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon "Corte C," Mendoza, Argentina ($17) -- Vistalba's Corte C does what Argentine malbec (blended with a splash of cabernet) is supposed to do: deliver tremendous bang for the buck. This vintage of Corte C shows layers of juicy black fruits with supple tannins and hints of mocha and spice. It has weight on the palate and length on the finish and it's downright delicious. Tremendous value at this price. Rating: 90.
Wakefield Estate 2015 Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia ($17) -- Wakefield's Clare Valley riesling shows the beauty of this grape variety when planted in the right locations. The Clare offers cool nights and warm days and delivers riesling that can compete with any in the world, including Germany's, albeit in a different style. This vintage of the Wakefield Clare shows stony minerals and lime fruit, with a long, juicy palate and refreshing, mouthwatering acidity that begs another sip. And there's the little-known fact that these wines develop remarkable complexity with age, though almost no one takes the time nor has the patience to do that. Rating: 90.
Mud House 2014 Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand ($17) -- This is a fairly simple, straightforward pinot from Mud House, but with exceptional intensity of flavor despite its lack of complexity. On the palate this wine shows bright raspberry fruit with a touch of spice and wood bramble. A huge winner in its price category. Rating: 87.
Tasting Notes
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs, Carneros ($22) -- Gloria Ferrer's blanc de noirs is consistently among the finest wines of its type in the United States. The current non-vintage release is a fresh and refreshing bubbly, showing notes of crunchy green apple and peach, a lively mousse and excellent lift on the palate. With a fresh, crisp, clean finish it is a perfect aperitif wine. Rating: 89.
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