3 softly textured wines to enjoy with poached salmon

You won’t believe how tender these salmon fillets turn out; they’re like fish pudding. It’s also a good reminder that sometimes the best wine simply pairs up with the texture of the food. For example, there’s not much better a match to the crack of the teeth on grilled sausages than a juicy red Cotes du Rhone, as soft as a kitten’s ears. Salmon takes to many wines. For this dish, go for one that will be like a case to its pillow, something to hold the softness together on the tongue. Mild tannin will do; so will tangy acidity.

The food: Poached Salmon with Dill-Caper Sauce

Heat 2 cups water and 1 cup dry vermouth in a skillet over high heat. Cut 1 lemon into thin slices; add slices to skillet along with 1 sprig fresh dill, 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon whole peppercorns. Heat to a simmer; cook 10 minutes. Add 4 fillets salmon (6 ounces each), skin side up. Cover skillet; simmer 4 minutes. Remove skillet from heat; turn fillets over. Cover skillet; let stand off heat until salmon is done, 5-8 minutes. Stir 1 tablespoon each minced fresh dill, capers and lemon juice into 1/2 cup mayonnaise. Serve with the salmon. Makes: 4 servings