Here a quadruple threat of zesty lemon, lively white wine, piquant capers and aromatic fresh basil steps up to meet the challenge. Chicken is gently simmered in a lemon scented wine-water to keep the meat tender. That cooking broth, thickened and enriched with cream, then becomes a sauce — the capers and basil coming in at the end to preserve their flavors.

It’s all tossed with pasta, but steamed rice, quinoa or a bed of salad greens would also be welcome instead.

Tips:

For the wine, choose something unoaked for a fresher note, like sauvignon blanc, riesling or vinho verde.

I also liked the sauce with thyme instead of basil; add it to the sauce when you add the cream, as it can stand longer cooking.

Linguine with Lemony Chicken

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 20 minutes

Makes: 2 servings

8 oz. linguine

2 chicken breast halves, bone on, skin removed

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

1/4 tsp. salt

1 lemon

3 Tbsp. heavy cream

1 Tbsp. capers, drained, rinsed, coarsely chopped

5 fresh basil leaves, sliced in thin chiffonade

Cook the linguine in a large pot of well-salted boiling water until al dente, 8-10 minutes. Drain.

Meanwhile, place the chicken breasts in a medium saucepan or skillet. Add about 1 cup water, enough to cover the bottom of the pan by 1/4 inch or so. Add wine, garlic and salt. Cut a good size piece of zest from the lemon; add it to the water along with a generous squeeze of lemon juice. Heat the water to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Lower the heat and cover the pan; simmer until chicken is just cooked through.

When chicken is done, transfer it to a cutting board; remove bones from the chicken and discard them. Slice the chicken breasts crosswise into thin slices.

Turn the heat under the pan to high; cook to reduce braising liquid in half. Lower heat to a simmer; stir in cream. Cook until beginning to thicken. Add capers and reserved chicken; cook and stir, coating the chicken with the sauce and heating it through. Taste for seasoning. Toss the drained pasta in the pan with the chicken and sauce; serve, garnished with the basil and some finely grated lemon zest.

Nutrition information per serving: 717 calories, 20 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 124 mg cholesterol, 88 g carbohydrates, 44 g protein, 491 mg sodium, 5 g fiber