Dumplings from every culture are labor-intensive. There’s just no getting around that, and if someone sets a plate of dumplings before you, I hope you appreciate the work that went into them.
Of all the dumplings I know, manti, the little lamb-filled, open-face dumplings, please me most.
The Turks claim them most loudly, but I learned about manti from Armenian friends during my Detroit days, so for me, they will always be Armenian. I prepare them to keep the memories of old friends fresh in my mind. And besides, they’re just plain good eating.
My nickel-size manti would never please a critical Turkish future mother-in-law — tradition says she’d only be impressed with manti so tiny that 40 would fit in a spoon. Unless you have a critical future mother-in-law on the horizon, nickel-size is fine. And, in fact, sometimes I make much larger manti — the size of the familiar Chinese pot sticker — and steam them as the Chinese often do. They’re superb that way too. Just don’t forget the garlicky yogurt that crowns the dish.
In traditional kitchens, women would gather to prepare dishes like manti. They might gossip over the thin, eggy dough and fragrant lamb filling, or they might complain about their kinfolk, or they might celebrate one another’s good fortune. After all, many hands make light work. In dumpling-making, there’s work for everyone, from the learner to the expert.
So if you have help making these, count your blessings. If, however, you labor alone, here’s a great excuse to prop up your tablet and binge-watch something on Netflix. After two episodes of “Call the Midwife,” I had about 130 manti. That’s enough for two for a generous dinner and a delectable lunch for two the next day.
Robin Mather is a freelance writer and editor and the author of “The Feast Nearby,” a collection of essays and recipes from a year of eating locally on a budget.
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Credit: Michael Tercha
Credit: Michael Tercha
ARMENIAN-STYLE MANTI
Prep: 2 hours
Cook: 25-35 minutes
Makes: 4 to 6 servings, about 140 dumplings
These nickel-size, canoe-shaped dumplings are labor-intensive, so feel free to skip the dough recipe here and substitute fresh egg roll wrappers (each sheet cut into 9 pieces) or wonton wrappers (each sheet cut into 4 pieces). Traditionally, the manti are added to a piping bowl of chicken broth after baking, but I don’t bother with that and just bake them smooshed together, then serve in squares with the garlicky yogurt. The sumac, while optional, offers a pop of color and lemon-bright flavor.
Dough:
1 large egg
3 to 5 tablespoons water
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 1/2 cups flour (plus 2-4 tablespoons more if needed, for rolling)
Filling:
1 pound ground lamb
1 medium onion, grated
1 small bunch parsley, minced
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons salt
Pepper, to taste
4 tablespoons butter, melted
Sauce:
1 cup plain Greek-style yogurt, thinned with 1 tablespoon water
2 cloves garlic, very finely minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground sumac, optional
1. For the dough: Combine egg, water, salt, melted butter and flour in a food processor. Start with the smaller amount of water and add the remainder if needed to make the dough come together. Whiz until a dough forms. Tip out of the food processor onto a flour-dusted board and knead briefly. Let rest, covered, for 30 minutes to allow the dough to relax.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Combine the ground lamb, onion, parsley, garlic, salt and pepper in a medium bowl and mix well. Set aside.
3. Cut the dough into four pieces; work with one portion at a time, leaving remaining balls of dough covered. Roll the dough ball out into a rectangle about 1/8-inch thick. Cut the dough into squares about 1 1/2 inches on each side. (Or, if using egg roll wrappers or wonton wrappers, proceed after cutting as directed above.) Place 1/2 teaspoon of the filling in the center of each square. Dab each end of the rectangle with water and then pinch the two ends with your fingers to form a canoe-shaped pastry, leaving the top open.
4. Arrange the manti close together, meat-side up, in a well-buttered shallow baking dish. Repeat with remaining dough balls. Pour the melted butter over the manti. Refrigerate or freeze for later baking, if desired.
5. At baking time, heat oven to 350 degrees; bake until the manti are golden brown, 25 to 35 minutes.
6. While the manti bake, make the sauce: Combine the yogurt, garlic and salt in a mixing bowl. To serve, cut the baked manti into squares like lasagna. Dribble the garlicky yogurt over the manti, and sprinkle with ground sumac. Serve immediately.
Nutrition information per serving (for 6 servings): 418 calories, 24 g fat, 13 g saturated fat, 116 mg cholesterol, 28 g carbohydrates, 3 g sugar, 21 g protein, 1,141 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
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