Bread recipes frequently call for some sort of “wash” or glaze before baking. Sometimes, a recipe may call for egg, sometimes milk, even butter. Different washes are used to achieve different results. So how do you choose the right one for your project?
EGG: Using beaten whole eggs will give color and sheen to a bread. Egg yolk provides rich color, browning easily in the oven; egg white provides a nice sheen.
MILK: Brushing with milk will lend color to the crust, as the sugars in the milk help to brown it.
WATER: Water is often sprayed or brushed onto bread before it is placed in a very hot oven — and while it bakes — to give the bread an extra-crisp crust. Water added to an egg wash thins the wash so it brushes more easily.
BUTTER: Butter gives the bread a softer crust and richer flavor.
SWEETENERS: Honey, maple syrup, agave and other liquid sweeteners will give bread a sweeter, softer crust.
— Noelle Carter
PRETZEL BUNS
1 hour, 20 minutes plus rising time. Makes 8 buns
1 (1/4-ounce) package active-dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)
1 3/4 cups warm water
2 teaspoons light brown sugar
5 cups
bread flour, divided
1/2 cup rye flour
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons butter, melted
Pretzel wash, such as lye (see note) or beaten whole egg
Coarse sea salt, for topping
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the warm water. Stir in the sugar and one-half cup of the bread flour. Set aside until the yeast begins to bubble, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining bread flour with the rye flour and salt.
3. Beat the melted butter into the large bowl with the yeast. Using the dough hook (if using a stand mixer) or a fork or wooden spoon (if mixing by hand), slowly mix in the remaining flour mixture, a spoonful at a time, until all of the flour is added and a firm, thick dough is formed.
4. Move the dough to a lightly floured board. Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic, 2 to 3 minutes.
5. Remove the dough to a large, oiled bowl. Cover and set aside in a warm place until the dough is almost doubled in size, 45 minutes to an hour.
6. Meanwhile, prepare the pretzel wash and heat the oven to 375 degrees.
7. Divide the risen dough into eight pieces, each weighing about 5 ounces. Form each piece into a ball, pinching the seams together at the base of each one. Flatten each ball so it’s about 1 inch thick.
8. Coat the pretzels with a wash. If using lye, dip the roll in the wash (wear rubber kitchen gloves and goggles) for 15 to 20 seconds, turning the roll over halfway to coat evenly. Remove the round to a greased nonreactive baking sheet and top as desired (if using an aluminum baking sheet, line the sheet with parchment before greasing). If using beaten egg, brush the egg over the buns.
9. Use a serrated knife or razor blade to make a crosswise slit into the top of each roll about one-half-inch deep. Sprinkle over the coarse sea salt. Set the rounds aside until puffed and risen, about 15 minutes.
10. Bake the pretzel rounds, one sheet at a time, in the center of the oven until puffed and a rich golden brown (color will vary depending on the wash), about 20 minutes. Rotate the sheet halfway through baking for even coloring.
11. Remove the baking sheet to a rack, and set aside until the pretzel buns have cooled completely before slicing and serving.
Note: From Noelle Carter. Food-grade lye is the classic wash for pretzels. It can be found at some cooking supply stores and online (do not use common lye; it is not food-safe). To make enough wash for one batch of buns, dissolve 1 ounce (about 2 tablespoons) food-grade lye in 1 quart of warm water (add the lye to the water, not the other way around) in a glass bowl. Wear gloves and goggles while using this wash; lye can burn if it comes into contact with your skin or eyes.
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