Chef’s subtle changes improve menu

This 12-year-old restaurant has had an overhaul, including a new kitchen, a fresh bar program and a revamped look in the dining room, with lighter colors and coastal touches to enliven the ski-lodge-style architecture.

It has inched closer to mimicking its sister restaurants, Ray’s on the River and Ray’s in the City. Ray’s on the Creek is now less chophouse and slightly more fish house.

Chef Tracy Bloom, a former “Top Chef” contestant, has been making subtle changes to the menu. The shrimp and grits — a nice version layered with mushrooms, bell peppers and a thick white wine-butter sauce — is now made with toothsome Logan Turnpike grits instead of instant. The horseradish grouper features a Meyer lemon confit for a lighter, brighter version.

Best of show are her ahi tacos — miniature shells bursting with crunchy strips of cucumber and radish dressed with avocado aioli. Sriracha adds a touch of heat to the seasoned veggies layered with thick slices of fresh tuna. The tacos top my list of favorites here, although a little more acid might pull it all together. More, please.