Wine bar a keeper

STEM WINE BAR

1311 Johnson Ferry Road, Marietta

The new Stem Wine Bar in east Cobb nails many of the essential features of a great wine and tapas bar.

While the decor may feel a touch sterile, Stem excels at making the world of wine accessible, with guidance from servers who don’t take themselves too seriously and affordable, extensive sampling options. Its European-inspired charcuterie, cheeses and true small plates play a supporting role, pairing well with a smart wine list designed to satisfy, educate and surprise wine novices and oenophiles alike.

Stem suggests you try the 2010 Gran Familia tempranillo ($7 a glass) with the patatas bravas ($7), small potatoes carved into miniature shot glasses containing a rich pimento sauce and a zippy garlic aioli. You also could pair that red with the chorizo-stuffed dates ($12) in a smoked tomato sauce, a lovely mingling of sweet, spicy, salty and smoky flavors.

Stem is a hidden gem. You’ll find this one to be a keeper.