Service lags behind food at French newcomer

People over the age of, say, 45 will recognize Le Bilboquet for what it is. Not just a French restaurant, but a certain kind of French restaurant that was popular about 20 years ago — one that imbued classic brasserie style with uptown fanciness. Take in the sights at this Buckhead Atlanta newcomer — the zinc bar, the gleaming porcelain dishes, the natty waiters, the scrolling font of the menu — and you know where you are.

This kitchen mostly does right by its classics. If you’re hankering for a worthwhile steak tartare, moules frites or fat profiteroles with vanilla ice cream and bitter chocolate sauce, you will be happy to taste the finessed renditions Le Bilboquet is capable of.

The food is almost good enough to make you accept the elevated prices here, where a meal can easily top out at $100 a head. Alas, the well meaning but clumsy service staff isn’t yet up to the task, and I can’t in good conscience recommend a restaurant that’s this expensive without a caveat.