Bartaco, Intown Atlanta: Skip the signature tacos and enjoy the vibe

This newcomer is from the Connecticut-based restaurant group that brought us Inman Park’s Barcelona, and it is the fifth iteration of a concept that has served the company well in the Northeast. That may explain the hard-core Yankee vibe. With its white and marine-blue wood paneling, striped booth cushions and easy blurring of space between the bar-dominated inside and outdoor patio, everything about this place says beach party in the Hamptons.

I wouldn’t spend too much time with the signature tacos, which come on firm, unlikable corn tortillas. But you can drink and nibble well if you hit the menu’s sweet spots. There’s nothing wrong and quite a lot right with the house mojito, as well as a seasonal caipirinha goosed with orange and a bare dash of elderflower liqueur. Nosh on a tangy chopped salad and a sloppy but easy-to-love ear of street corn rolled in mayonnaise, cojita cheese and red chile. A half rotisserie chicken is tender and well seasoned, and a steal at $8.