THE PIG AND THE PEARL

1380 Atlantic Drive N.W., Atlanta. thepigandthepearl.com. $$$

1 of 4 stars: Good

This raw bar-smokehouse hybrid proves to be an independent, chef-driven addition to Atlantic Station’s dining scene that fits the area’s vibe. The ambitiously large menu includes fatty smoked meats and bold flavors, which may or may not be your style. But, you’ll dig the progression from an icy platter of oysters and a cold brew to a cut of smoky brisket and unique takes on barbecue sides. Here, you have a casually upscale spot to grab a cocktail and a hearty meal before catching a movie or a Cirque du Soleil performance.

Take advantage of oyster season and sample the grassy Grand Pearl oysters from Chesapeake Bay or nibble your way through the raw bar menu with items like the cube of yellowfin tuna with thin slices of cucumber and a zesty ponzu gelee. Turning to the smokehouse menu, you may find the ribs a little tough, but consider the smoked North Carolina trout with preserved lemon and charred scallion.

Whether or not this is your brand of ’cue, you can make this restaurant work for you as a precursor to your evening’s entertainment.