A neighborhood work in progress

When Luellen Marshall opened the Bishop in Avondale Estates this past spring, she was determined to create something unique.

Sure, the Bishop sources regionally and seasonally. It supports local vendors like Pine Street Market and Wild Heaven Craft Beers. And, yes, its interior has the de rigueur rustic-meets-industrial feel.

But Marshall hopes the Bishop will provide a distinct experience for Avondale Estates. And it almost does; neither your meal nor the service is entirely polished, but you appreciate the hospitality and leave happy and satisfied, just the same.

The Bishop occasionally gets creative with its comfort fare. Take the fried chicken, which is made with a smoked bird. Or consider the nice, homey pair of ham steaks flavored with jalapeno jelly and cubes of glazed turnips over creamy gouda grits.

These nonstandard menu items show the most promise at this neighborhood spot.