Neighborhood eatery needs more focus

Ration & Dram, the new Kirkwood spot from Andy Minchow, has many of the elements of successful independent establishments. You’ll find a seasonal menu with locally sourced ingredients and particular emphasis on the beverage program, along with en vogue cast-iron serveware and an interior replete with wooden accents and stained concrete flooring.

Yet, Ration & Dram seems to lack a unifying vision, and what’s left feels like a jumble of contradictions. It’s touted as a kid-friendly restaurant but has mostly high-top table seating (a parent’s nightmare). Despite its focus on cocktails, there are too many lackluster concoctions. And the menu is in transition, with new chef Rod Lassiter moving from a loose vegetarian-focus (with items like the grain bowl chock full of veggies) to also having what Lassiter calls “progressive Southern” fare (think cracklin’ pork belly).

Still, the neighborhood likely will find a way to use this restaurant, rooting out the best items — like that pork belly swirled with orange, sorghum, bourbon and ginger, or the ranch dip-like chilled celery soup.