Fare often creative, but hit-and-miss at Seven Lamps in Buckhead

Seven Lamps is a case study in contradictions, juxtapositions and, well, little oddities. This irregular five-sided space across from Lenox Square features a roomful of communal tables facing mixologist Arianne Fielder’s libation laboratory.

Chef-owner Drew Van Leuvan calls the restaurant his “workshop” and says you should expect a completely different experience with each visit.

Although he’s trained as a savory chef, Van Leuvan admits a fondness for the precision required for pastry. That, and a sweet tooth, show up in dishes like Georgia shrimp cannelloni with pickled peaches over apricot-hued caramelized onion puree. You may do a double take (if not a second bite) over the sweet pistachio macaron cookies filled with mortadella mousse.

But then you may melt into a gussied-up grilled cheese, decadent with Gruyere, fromage blanc and Jack cheeses, creamy avocado and egg spilling into toasty brioche. Paired with the perfectly simple hand-cut fries, your comfort-food mission will be accomplished. This chef has talent.