The Greek Gyros and Pizza

209 Edgewood Ave. S.E., Atlanta

One of the market’s newest food stalls, the Greek Gyros and Pizza, has some of the same retro appeal as Grindhouse.

Johnny Gianoulidis, the chef/owner of the Greek, grew up in the 1970s working in his family’s Greek pizza parlor, Johnny’s Pizza, in Moosup, Conn. Gianoulidis brings that family background and some of his mother’s recipes to his take on old school pan pizza and classic Greek dishes, such as stuffed grape leaves, spinach pie, pastitsio and moussaka.

‘Good energy’

During a recent phone conversation, Gianoulidis said it only took one visit for him to fall in love with the Curb Market, which reminded him of similar places in Boston and Philadelphia. “There’s a lot of good energy,” Gianoulidis said. “I’m trying to get a little more traffic to the market, both for me and the city, because it really is an undiscovered gem.”

The Greek is tucked into a modest market stall fronted by a lighted display case and an order counter. Seating is at a tiny adjoining counter with a few stools or at a collection of food court-style tables.

Crust like in New England

Gianoulidis fashions his round pan pizza with a kind of bready Greek-style crust he said is popular in New England. The fresh dough is made with two kinds of flour and a wet yeast. It bakes up to a pleasantly chewy texture, not quite thick or thin, with a notable crunch. Sweetish, oregano-spiked red sauce and freshly shredded white cheddar add to the Greek-American flavors.

Pizza by the slice ($2.25 for cheese) or the pie ($8.45 for medium cheese/ $11.95 for large cheese) can be ordered with a variety of toppings, including feta or provolone cheese, Canadian bacon, gyro meat or sun-dried tomatoes. Among the specialty pies, the Omnivore comes loaded with hamburger, pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, onions and peppers.

Calzones — folded with a mix of white cheddar, provolone and feta and served with a side of red sauce — can be filled with any of the pizza toppings.

Meaty gyros

Gyros are the other mainstay of the Greek’s menu. The standard wrap ($6.45) is a rotisserie-roasted blend of beef and lamb served in thick slabs with slices of tomato and red onion and tangy house-made tsastiki sauce. A relatively petite round of pita bread is no match for the meaty melange, which may require a knife and fork, or at least a fistful of napkins.

And if all that’s not enough, you can add feta or provolone, or make it a platter with roasted Greek potatoes or a small Greek salad.

Dining out

The Greek Gyros and Pizza, 209 Edgewood Ave. S.E., Atlanta. 404-254-2899

Signature dish: Pizza

Entree prices: $2.25-$9.45

Hours: 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturdays

Credit cards: Yes

Web site: www.thegreekatl.com

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