Chef-restaurateur Rob Atherholt has been around the Atlanta dining scene for a long while. Early on, the Johnson & Wales University grad worked for Murphy's in Virginia-Highland. Later, he bought the Decatur breakfast eatery Thumbs Up, changed the name to Crescent Moon, and operated it successfully for more than a decade before selling it in late 2007.
Taqueria El Vecino is Atherholt's latest venture. The unassuming little family-friendly Mexican spot on LaVista Road is often crowded at lunch and dinner, when regulars from the surrounding Oak Grove neighborhood stop in for reasonably priced tacos and combo plates, and service with a smile.
Mom-and-pop character
Taqueria El Vecino is in a storefront space that has a stripped-down character familiar at mom-and-pop places all over the world, with bright green walls, a scattering of Mexican knickknacks, a hodgepodge of tables and chairs, and strobe-like ceiling fans. A small outdoor deck juts into the parking lot. On Friday nights, Atherholt mans the grill there, turning out specials like marinated skirt steak with three salsas as if he's at a backyard cookout.
Variety of fillings
Like the decor, the menu is a casual jumble. Tacos, burritos and quesadillas can be customized with a variety of fillings. Build your own combo plate, choosing from two or three tacos, tamales or enchiladas with rice and beans.
Starters include a tasty battered and fried roasted poblano pepper oozing with Chihauhua cheese, and choriqueso, a decadent cheese dip spiked with chorizo sausage.
Tacos, priced at $2.50 each, are discounted if you order more than 10. They're made with flavorful soft corn tortillas, onions, cilantro, and a choice of one meat or vegetable. Good bets include carne asada (tender pieces of grilled skirt steak), carnitas (seasoned pork cooked in orange juice, garlic and onion), and pastor (adobo-marinated pork with pineapple).
The pescado frito, fried, masa-dusted tilapia, has a golden-brown crispy coating, but the marinated cabbage slaw topping is a tad overwhelming.
The freshly made tamales ($3 each) are also worth trying. The fluffy masa corn dough is stuffed with meats and cheeses and steamed in corn husks. Try the jalapeno and cheese, chicken with mole sauce or pulled pork with tomatillo green sauce.
Salsa, si
One of the best things about Taqueria El Vecino is the variety of housemade salsas featured on the self-serve Wall of Flame salsa bar. Each table may choose two to go with a free basket of chips (or pay 75 cents for extras). You also can add salsas and other condiments to tacos and the like. Pico de gallo, mild, roasted, salsa verde, and hot habanero are among recent offerings, along with cilantro, limes, pickled onions, jicama with chili, roasted jalapeno, and a spicy ranch-style sauce.
AT A GLANCE
• Where: 2743 LaVista Road, Decatur. 404-929-0301
• Signature dish: Tacos and combo plates
• Entree prices: $6.50-$9.75
• Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Sundays. Lunch specials 11:30 a.m.- 2 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays.
• Reservations: For large parties
• Credit cards: Yes
• Online: www.taqueriaelvecino.com
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