The name is sure to provoke curiosity. And some menu items -- including the likes of roasted White Oak Pastures beef tongue with heirloom tomatoes ($15) and buttermilk-fried Springer Mountain chicken necks with kimchee ($8) -- are aimed at adventurous eaters. But beyond that, One Eared Stag is really a pretty easygoing place.
Chef Robert Phalen and the team behind Holy Taco in East Atlanta Village took over the former Shaun’s space near the Inman Park MARTA station and have created a restaurant that evokes a bit of both Holy Taco and Shaun’s. Of course, that’s not too surprising given that Phalen once worked back in the same kitchen under chef Shaun Doty.
The look: For the most part, One Eared Stag still looks a lot like Shaun's, though there's been some sprucing up with new trim and paint. And the long wall that divides the bar area from the main dining room is now home to a whole lot of taxidermy, with wild boar, Texas Longhorn and a variety of stag heads on display. Hint: The stag head behind the bar is missing one ear.
The scene: Early one Friday evening, the convivial bar scene included a local dining critic, a local chef and a determined young man gnawing through a neatly arranged stack of chicken necks. Some Holy Taco regulars showed up, clearly excited to see what Phalen had on the menu.
The menu: Phalen's offerings, which change daily and feature loads of local and seasonal ingredients, are divided between small plates, big plates and sides. Last week, there was soft-shell crab with field pea salad and pea tendrils ($13) among the small plates and fried Mississippi rabbit with grilled loin and parsley caper salad ($19) among the big plates. Sides included pole beans with apricots and ham ($6) and French horn mushroom conserve ($7).
The drinks: The bar menu is still a work in progress, but cocktails lean toward ingredient-driven classics. Right now, there's Lagunitas IPA ($5) and Allagash White ($5) on draft, plus a small selection of bottled beer. The wine list includes at least four Stag's Leap selections, including a 2008 sauvignon blanc ($12/$40).
The extras: Phalen does a daily lunch menu with some items repeated from the dinner menu and several sandwiches. A Riverview Farms pork belly "BLT" with yellow tomato, ramps and pork fat mayo ($8) was one recent addition.
Dining out
One Eared Stag in Inman Park
11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Wednesdays; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays. Bar open late.
Salads and starters, $6-$14; mains, $8-$19; sides, $5-$7.
1029 Edgewood Ave., Atlanta. 404-525-4479, oneearedstag.com.
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