First Look: LeRoy’s Fried Chicken in Atlanta

It may be one more measure of the current food culture that so many bloggers have been so eager to weigh in on LeRoy’s Fried Chicken — chewing the merits of seasoning, skin and meat, down to the bone — and even ruminating over the name.

Like the concept and the cooking, the name comes from chef Julia LeRoy, best known for bringing a locavore bent to bar food at the Bookhouse Pub. LeRoy partnered with the owners of Fellini’s Pizza and LaFonda Latina to open the take-away-only stand focused on natural chicken fried in lard “the good old-fashioned way,” as she’s explained.

The look: Located next to the newest LaFonda on Howell Mill Road, LeRoy's joins the booming Westside scene, showing out with a fun, funky flair. A vintage Coca-Cola sign marks the entrance. A neon "Open" sign and sliding order and pickup windows recall classic '50s ice cream stands. A big outdoor menu board pictures an upright cartoon drumstick with a royal crown.

The scene: The chicken is fried to order, which means there can be a long line when it's busy. During one visit, there was a sizable crowd waiting impatiently and occupying the high-top tables on the patio. Another evening, there was no queue and a three-piece box of chicken ($8.25) came out in a jiffy.

The menu: LeRoy's offerings are a study in simplicity. Springer Mountain chicken is brined, dredged in buttermilk and seasoned flour and cooked in pressure fryers. Order two-, four-, six- or eight-piece boxes ($5.95 -- $19.95) or a meal combo ($7.25) with two pieces of dark or one piece of white, a side and a biscuit. A la carte sides ($1.50/$2.95) include house-cut fries, mac and cheese, collard greens, slaw or a small salad.

The drinks: The drinks menu features Mexican Coke, sweet tea and lemonade ($1.75) and retro soft drinks such as Cheerwine and Red Rock ($2.50). The Royal Palmer ($2.50) is a half-and-half combo of lemonade and hibiscus tea.

The extras: Since opening, LeRoy has added to the menu a chicken salad sandwich on H&F pretzel bread ($7.25) and a chicken biscuit ($2.50). Daily farmers market special sides have included the likes of a local heirloom tomato salad with Decimal Place Farms feta ($2.95). Look for desserts, such as fruit cobbler, soon and chicken soup come cooler weather.