Burrito Gorilla offers an ingredient-driven take on simple Mexican food. House-smoked pork and brisket, fresh salsas and local products and produce are part of the mix. But partners Jonathan Agri and Steven Felty like to call their food “authentic, just not authentic Mexican” --  preferring to play with a variety of spices and less common herbs, such as nepitella.

“Basically, it’s a burrito joint with pretensions to being a restaurant,” Felty said.

The look: Tucked away in a freestanding brick building near the intersection of State Bridge Road and Jones Bridge Road, the space is a bit off the beaten path, with a large front patio that feels surprisingly secluded despite the traffic nearby. Inside, bright colors and a series of cartoonish gorilla paintings give the place the look of a crazy cantina.

The scene: A friendly young staff sees to the table service. One afternoon, they were busy delivering chips and salsa, huge Mexican-style torta sandwiches and even bigger burritos to a business lunch crowd in the main dining room and a few more relaxed parties out on the patio.

The menu: Burritos ($4.25 -- $11.95), stuffed with chicken, pork, steak or grilled veggies, plus beans, rice, salsa, crema and cheese, come in three sizes. the small "monkey," medium "chimp" and humongous three-pound "gorilla." There are also specialty burritos ($10.95) and "wet" burritos ($8.95) topped with pork verde or chicken adobo. Arepas ($8.95), corn cakes made with chorizo, smoked pork or chicken come with black beans and cabbage salad.

The drinks: Look for cocktails, including top-shelf margaritas, coming soon. In the meantime, there's a bargain-priced selection of hoppy, spice-friendly craft beers, such as Sierra Torpedo, Terrapin Hopsecutioner and Sweetwater IPA, plus quality wines by the glass.

The extras: In June, Agri and Felty will be opening an Italian restaurant in the building next door. They also offer catering and have a space for private parties.

Dining out

Burrito Gorilla in Johns Creek

4:30-9 p.m. Mondays-Tuesdays; 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays; closed Sundays.

Starters and salads, $3.95-$8.95; tacos, $3.25-$9.95; arepas, $8.95; tortas, $7.95-$10.95; quesadillas, $7.95; burritos, $4.25-$11.95; beans and rice, $2.

2100 Ray Moss Connector, 678-867-0852, burritogorilla.com