Essex Bagels & Deli in Johns Creek features fat, hand-rolled and kettle-boiled bagels similar to the style baked at BB's Bagels & Diner in Alpharetta. In fact, BB's owner Eddie Siino helped Essex owners Marian and Jerry Davidson develop their bagel-making process. And like BB's, Essex serves New York-style deli sandwiches, burgers and breakfast all day.

Jersey to Johns Creek

The Davidsons are New Jersey natives, who bring a bit of that Northeastern sensibility to the store front space at Johns Creek Walk on Medlock Bridge Road.

Just inside the door, there's a takeaway counter and bakery case with muffins, coffee cake, brownies and cookies. The daily assortment of fresh bagels is artfully displayed in wire baskets on the wall.

Around the corner, you'll find tables, booths and a small counter that looks into the semi-open deli kitchen.

Bulky bagels

Like BB's, Essex's bulky bagels ($.95 each) are bready and chewy, and because they're boiled before baking, they have a shiny, pretzel-like crust. Plain, egg, sesame, salt, garlic, blueberry, chocolate chip — you name it, they make it.

Specialty bagels ($1.25 each) include cheddar, asiago and sun-dried tomato. With it's sweet crumbly topping, the French toast bagel is a breakfast favorite.

Cream cheese spreads include lox, horseradish bacon, blueberry and cinnamon raisin walnut.

Deli sandwiches

Because they believe it better locks in moisture and flavor, the Davidsons prefer to steam the meat for their deli sandwiches, rather than grill it.

That certainly seems to work for the Jersey Reuben. On a recent visit, the corned beef was juicy and flavorful, layered with kraut, melted Swiss cheese and Russian dressing on lightly grilled rye. But the hot pastrami on a toasted pumpernickel bagel was less tasty and much more dry.

Specialty sandwiches range from a hefty triple decker club and a classic patty melt to the Hillside, a combo of corned beef, pastrami and chopped liver on rye.

Breakfast all day

Essex opens early every day, but breakfast is a big draw all day.

The popular hot breakfast sandwiches come on a bagel, toast or an English muffin. Choose from egg, plus cheese, sausage, bacon or Taylor ham.

Breakfast plates include a bagel or toast and grits or home fries. Nova lox or whitefish salad cold platters are served on a bed of romaine lettuce with red onion, tomato, sliced egg and a bagel.

Dining out

Essex Bagels & Deli, Johns Creek

Address & phone: 11030 Medlock Bridge Road, 770-476-8214

Signature dish: Bagels

Entree prices: $4.99-$8.99

Hours: 6 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Sundays.

Credit cards: Yes

Online: No website

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