850°F BARPIZZA

12635 Crabapple Road, Milton. 850fbarpizza.com.

[2 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to its neighborhood and the food is consistent. $$

When co-owners Glenn Griffiths and Nick Manocchio opened 850°F Barpizza in Milton, they attempted to re-create their own backyard Neapolitan pizza parties.

Pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and bufala mozzarella on a lightly flame-kissed crust circulate through the crowds that have already found this soiree. Belly-filling spaghetti dishes, like the pizzas, are satisfying enough, if not the best specimens you’ve ever had. And if you can ever get your server to bring you a beverage, you can enjoy a night on the patio with friends and munchies.

The pizzas are consistent, but lack that deliciously wet and sloppy center of many Neapolitan-style pies. Get a traditional DOC margherita with oval splotches of baked bufala mozzarella and crispy basil, more charred than the crust. Or go with the spacca Napoli, another red saucer, loaded with fennel sausage crumbles, spicy Peppadew peppers and golden caramelized onions.

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