American brasserie kicks off new Krog Street Market

For his first post-celebrity venture at the new Krog Street Market he has rather smartly thumbed his nose at the prevailing dining tropes and gone with a decidedly different concept. The Luminary calls itself an “American brasserie,” by which Kirshtein can rethink old-school French recipes with local ingredients and reflect a more up-to-date sensibility.

He rolls a veal breast (when was the last time you saw that?) and serves it with a by-the-book sauce gribiche, but then scatters the top with roasted hakurei turnips that have “organic farm” written all over them. And let other upscale-casual restaurants serve a burger; Kirshtein offers a country ham croque monsieur.

The look is that of a classic Parisian brasserie, with its expanse of glossy tile, brass wall sconces and bentwood chairs. It feels a bit like a movie set; fittingly so, as its location is Tyler Perry’s former studio.