There's nothing like a rib-sticking breakfast of meat, potatoes and eggs before facing a cold, gray winter morning. In downtown Alpharetta, Coalition Food and Beverage is serving a brunch dish fit for a lumberjack: a pastrami hash hearty enough for the most grizzled woodsman. As well-rounded as it is flavorful, it's a dish that provides all-day sustenance.

Chunky and rustic, the foundation of the hash is roughly chopped new potatoes cooked to just the right tenderness. The thinly sliced smoked pastrami provides the main punch of flavor, evenly distributing its salt, fat and spices across the plate. Gruyere cheese and a runny fried egg provide a little more richness, which is offset by crunchy and colorful bell peppers and onions.

More textural contrast and a shot of acidity is provided by a few pickled banana peppers, and the whole dish is married together with a vibrant green chimichurri. Often served with steak, the fresh, herbaceous flavor of chimichurri is an excellent foil for the pastrami, cheese and egg.

Getting out of bed in the winter is tough, but it’s easier to face a chilly day when you start it with Coalition’s pastrami hash.

Coalition Food and Beverage. 50 Canton St., Alpharetta. 470-839-6725, coalitionfoodandbeverage.com.

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