One reason that breakfast is such a satisfying, comforting meal is that it’s low-pressure. It’s a simple meal that typically focuses on dishes that are either salty or sweet. Sometimes, that leads to oversimplification: When it comes to breakfast sausage, the dominant flavor usually is salt. But, that allows truly tasty sausage to shine through, like the one served at west Midtown’s Star Provisions.
The folded egg and sage-ginger sausage biscuit at Anne Quatrano’s casual daytime restaurant is a mouthful in more ways than one. It’s a hearty breakfast sandwich, thanks to a dense yet springy biscuit, generous portion of eggs and thick slab of breakfast sausage.
As you’d expect from such a pedigreed restaurant, each element is executed well, but it’s the sausage that sets this breakfast biscuit apart. The sausage’s sage and ginger notes are bright and clear through the biscuit, egg and cheese sauce elements. The herbaceous, comforting flavor of sage complements each layer of the biscuit, connecting all the savory elements. The ginger is lighter, but adds a hint of sweetness and energy to the dish.
Alongside the relatively dense breakfast sandwich is a simple green salad dressed with vinaigrette. It’s an excellent foil to the biscuit — a classic French touch that you’ll also find at wonderful brunch restaurants like Bread & Butterfly and Whiskey Bird. The dish makes a hearty and well-rounded breakfast that’s a bit sophisticated, yet still comforting and low-pressure.
Star Provisions. 1460 Ellsworth Industrial Blvd. NW, Atlanta. 404-365-0410, starprovisions.com.
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