This Westside treat is a late-night party on a plate

Some people cling to their youth; others see growing up as an opportunity, a chance to upgrade and enhance the parts of their life they already enjoy. The disco frites at Tin Tin, part of the west Midtown wine bar’s late-night Nit Nit menu, are made for the latter group.

Billed as “not your grandma’s wine bar,” Tin Tin tries to appeal to people who are equal parts fun-loving and erudite. It’s the kind of restaurant where you easily can pass hours by the fireplace, laughing with friends. After you do, there’s not a better dish for soaking up all that French wine than the disco frites.

A mound of crispy, golden brown french fries serves as a foundation of carbohydrates, topped with rich duck “gravy” — shredded duck in a savory brown sauce. Layered on top of the generous serving of duck are slices of melty, unctuous brie, which continue to spread over the hot dish. Topped with a duck egg over easy and a handful of herbs, the disco frites check the same boxes as a mound of chili cheese fries scarfed down after a college party. Yes, the disco frites are more sophisticated, complex and French — and they’re all the more satisfying for it. It’s a dish that will make you feel glad to be grown-up.