BY WYATT WILLIAMS
There’s an old video of Jacques Pépin that begins with the iconic French chef looking directly into the camera and saying, “If I had to judge how good technically a chef is, I probably would ask him to do an omelet. It is difficult to make a real good omelet.”
Anyone who has watched his subsequent instructions for a classic French omelet and tried to replicate them knows how true this is. A good omelet is only made by someone who has made many mediocre omelets, who has persevered and learned the subtle judgments of heat and flicks of the wrist that transform humble eggs into one of the purest expressions of French cooking technique.
If Pépin were to order the omelet at Bread & Butterfly, I believe he would approve. Billy Allin's new French bistro is a place where the eggs demonstrate the prowess of a kitchen run by Bryan Stoffelen. After two and a half years at Allin's side as the chef de cuisine of Cakes & Ale , Stoffelen is helming Atlanta's best evocation of casual Parisian delight.
About the Author
