Names are important. Sometimes, they can be aspirational, evoking a hopeful destiny. In other cases, they can be an impossible burden. Names set expectations; at a restaurant, the name of a dish can affect how diners experience it. With that in mind, they've set quite a high bar for the Scrumptious Challah Egg and Cheese Soufflé at the Vinings brunch restaurant Oy.
This relatively simple breakfast casserole falls into the first category, because it is, in fact, scrumptious. The egg, cheese and excellent challah bread combine to form a dish that is much more than the sum of its parts. Its tall, crispy edges recall the Detroit-style pizzas at Nina & Rafi, while the creamy center is rich and decadent. As an egg and cheese breakfast dish, it eschews complexity for deep satisfaction. It's uncomplicated, inexpensive and huge. If you get the large portion, it's about the size and weight of a hardback dictionary.
The soufflé also lives up to the name of the restaurant itself, which is short for Overindulgent Yumminess. It’s completely unsubtle, but Oy is so cheerfully overconfident that it comes across as lovable, instead of off-putting or annoying. It’s a winning recipe for a brunch restaurant — simple food, cheeriness and plenty of extra cheese.
Oy. 2355 Cumberland Parkway, Atlanta. 770-989-1901, oyrestaurant.com.
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