Georgia beers that could get you to rethink beer

I was a teenager the first time I ate authentic Mexican mole. Wholly different from the Tex-Mex I was used to, the rich mole sauce with its layered flavors of peppers, spices and chocolate with fall-off-the-bone chicken was a revelation. It was a complete reintroduction to my concept of Mexican food.

Craft beer can be like that too. The many styles, variations and potential ingredients beget infinite possibilities. You could pick up one that will make you reconsider what you thought about beer.

These three Georgia brews might do that for you:

Creature Comforts Tritonia

The gose (pronounced GOZE-uh) is a German style that has been enjoying something of a renaissance in the United States. Cloudy, mildly tart and salty to boot, gose doesn't appeal to every palate. But those qualities, plus its low ABV, make it a terrific summertime brew -- kind of a Gatorade for beer drinkers.

With Tritonia, Athens' Creature Comforts took the humble gose and turned it into an aroma bomb. A heady mixture of cucumber and lime makes you pause and pause again before you bring the fizz to your lips. The cuke and citrus meld perfectly with sour and salt for a stunningly refreshing experience.

Available in limited release and at Creature Comforts' tastings. Tasting/tours: 5-8 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 1-4 p.m. Saturday. 271 W Hancock Ave., Athens. 706-621-6595, creaturecomfortsbeer.com

Burnt Hickory Eerie Von's XXXmas Spiced Apple Ale

Apple pie.

No, not apple cider. Apple pie.

Burnt Hickory in Kennesaw manages to transform the classic American dessert so it can be consumed from a beer glass with their apple spiced ale, affectionately known as Eerie Von. Unfiltered and thick with apple goodness and baking spices, you might forget for a minute that you're drinking a beer.

Scott Hedeen, owner of Burnt Hickory, says this dessert ale pairs well with a coffee cake or a dry pastry.

Available in limited release after Dec. 13, draft only, and at Burnt Hickory's December open house from noon to 5 p.m., Saturday, Dec. 13. 2260 Moon Station Court. #210, Kennesaw. 770-514-8812, burnthickorybrewery.com.

Second Self Mole Porter

So I have a soft spot in my heart for mole. And it turns out that concoction of peppers, spices and chocolate that works so well with chicken also melds perfectly with beer.

Atlanta's Second Self just opened a few months ago and their Mole Porter is the first release in their Second Shift series of limited beers. The lightly sweet aroma of chocolate is rounded out by cinnamon and cloves. Three types of peppers and roasted malt from the robust porter balance as the layers of sweet and spice complement one another. Pepper heat is barely perceptible.

This beer pairs well with both savory and sweet dishes: beef and pork tacos, stews, chilies, gruyere cheese and chocolate desserts.