No frills, just good sushi at Sushi Sumo in Alpharetta

No frills, just good sushi. That is Sushi Sumo in a nutshell.

Situated at the end of an Alpharetta shopping center anchored by Fresh Market and a host of other eateries, with a simple exterior and dark windows, the space is easy to overlook. It was the small stand of menus outside that caught my eye and beckoned me in.

The small dining room was filled with diners eating everything from sushi rolls to Chinese and Thai. A hostess quickly escorted me to the only open table. I barely sat down before being greeted by a server.

The lunch menu offers a mix of specials across various cuisine categories. I opted to order from specials on the "Lunch from the Sushi Bar" list: a maki lunch that included two rolls with miso soup or salad.

The salad wasn’t fancy, although the tomatoes were ripe and flavorful, the ginger dressing plentiful.

The spicy tuna roll had a good kick. A super crunch roll held a nice balance of crispy tempura flakes for that signature crunch and spicy mayo for a touch of creaminess, rolled up and topped with shrimp. A sample of the rainbow roll offered tender slices of fresh fish that melted in my mouth, while a shrimp avocado roll didn't skimp on ripe avocado for a buttery, silky boost. With each bite, I grew more impressed. Honestly, I wasn't expecting such quality sushi from this cozy hole in the wall.

Were the rolls over-the-top creative? No. Did they combine unique ingredients in unexpected ways? Also no. But were they expertly rolled, with super-fresh fish, and served up fast and friendly? Yes.

Sushi Sumo might not have all the bells and whistles of trendier sushi joints, but if you’re craving straightforward sushi, put this place into your sushi rotation.

Sushi Sumo. 3005 Old Alabama Road, Alpharetta. 770-752-8488, alpharettasushisumo.com.

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