2012 Domaine Louis Michel & Fils Chablis ‘Premier Cru Forets’

There’s nothing like a Chablis. In this northern reach of Burgundy, Chardonnay takes on an entirely different character. A good example, such as this premier cru “Forets” from Domaine Louis Michel, is characteristically lean and chiseled yet has a breathtaking complexity. And always, underneath everything, is a strong minerality. Notes of honey and lemon lead in the 2012, but there’s so much that happens from one sip to the next. That’s what makes Chablis so fascinating.

Drink it with oysters, with sushi or with a beautiful piece of Tasmanian ocean trout.

Region: Burgundy, France

Price: About $40

Style: Lean and mineral-driven

What it goes with: Oysters, sushi, grilled trout or salmon

Where to find it: Desert Discount Wines & Spirits in Palm Springs, 760-327-7701, www.desertwinesandspirits.com; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, 949-650-8463, www.hitimewine.net; Les Marchands Wine Bar & Merchant in Santa Barbara, 805-284-0380, www.lesmarchandswine.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles, 310-479-3731, www.winehouse.com.