Robert Mondavi, the man who almost single-handedly put California wine on the map, passed in 2008. That same year, Jean-Charles Boisset, president of the largest wine company in Burgundy, France, purchased his first winery in California.
In the intervening years Boisset married Gina Gallo of the E&J Gallo wine dynasty and beefed up his California wine portfolio with the addition of Raymond Vineyards and Buena Vista Winery to go with his original purchase of DeLoach Vineyards.
The two men have more in common than meets the eye.
Mondavi converted a skeptical world to the belief that California wine could compete with the finest wines from France, or anywhere for that matter. He did it with wit and charm and a bigger-than-life persona. Mondavi was a man of vision, forming alliances with vintners around the globe.
He was rightly considered California wine's ambassador to the world.
No one in the California wine community has demonstrated the personality, vision and personal charm necessary to fill that role -- no one until Jean-Charles Boisset.
Boisset left a huge footprint at the Sonoma Harvest Wine Auction over the Labor Day weekend. As one of the co-chairs, he hosted a pre-auction dinner, he and Gina hosted Taste of Sonoma for 2,500 at the Gallo-owned MacMurray Ranch; together they donated several of the top auction lots (the auction this year topped $4.5 million, more than doubling the previous record) and JCB (as he is often known) stirred the bidders to a fever pitch with his flamboyant presence.
Much like Mondavi, Boisset is gregarious and engaging, moving easily through a crowded room greeting everyone along the way with a smile and a word of praise. Fond of colorful slacks and red socks, Boisset stands out in the crowd; he is a man comfortable in his own skin.
He explained how he and his sister fell in love with the historic Buena Vista Winery, said to be the oldest winery in California, on their first trip to the California wine country.
But he has been a man of more than mere words, restoring Buena Vista to a glory it likely hasn't seen in more than 100 years. He has completed a similar transformation over in the Napa Valley at Raymond, which had slipped noticeably prior to the Boisset purchase.
Together with Gina Gallo they have emerged as the preeminent power couple in California wine.
Some may think it sacrilege to compare anyone, let alone a Frenchman, to the revered Mondavi. I say a new ambassador of good will is long overdue.
Best Value
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value, and the scores are simply a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.
Toad Hollow 2012 Reserve Merlot, Richard McDowell Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($17) -- Toad Hollow has long had the ability to sometimes dazzle at a modest price, as it does with its reserve merlot from the Russian River Valley's McDowell Vineyard. The flavors are bright and intense, showing notes of raspberry, blueberry and strawberry, with a dash of sweet oak-vanillin spice. Slightly drying wood tannins are the only off note, so drink this wine young, while the fruit is still dominant. Rating: 89.
Tasting Notes
Arnaldo-Caprai 2009 "Collepiano" Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, Umbria, Italy ($60) -- The revolution in Sagrantino di Montefalco was led by this outstanding winery with uncompromising standards and a world vision. One of the most, if not (SET ITAL) the (END ITAL) most, elegant of all Sagrantino-based wines, it draws you in with a nose of cedar and graphite, with a hint of vanilla. On the palate the wine exhibits the famous tannic grip of Sagrantino, but with more finesse and ultimately more soft and pleasing fruit than its rivals. This vintage is a classic, and nearly ready to drink now, though another five, 10 or 15 years would hardly be a problem. Rating: 95.
Migration 2013 Chardonnay Split Rail Vineyard, Anderson Valley ($42) -- I gave Migration's Split Rail Vineyard Chardonnay a couple of extra style points because, to be honest, it is a style I prefer, with a bit less oak, a bit firmer structure and a bit more elegance than some of the powerful, dramatic chardonnays I could name. This beautiful chard is fresh and crisp, shows a classic note of lemon oil, with aromas of Bosc pear and green apple. Complex, elegant and delicious, it is a beautiful thing. Rating: 94.
Schramsberg 2012 Brut Rose, North Coast ($43) -- Schramsberg Brut Rose is one of the finest in America and certainly could hold its own if served alongside top-notch brut rose from Champagne. The 2012 is delicious and elegant, with notes of fresh strawberry and raspberry and a hint of cola, which is typical of pinot noir-based bubbly. This vintage is 76 percent pinot and 24 percent chardonnay. It exhibits freshness and crisp acidity, with a creamy mid-palate and a long, persistent finish. An outstanding effort from one of America's finest sparkling wine houses. Rating: 93.
Colpetrone 2009 Sagrantino di Montefalco, Umbria, Italy ($25) -- Even at the ripe old age of six, Colpetrone's Sagrantino di Montefalco could use a few more years in the cellar to soften its firm tannins. This classic Sagrantino is bold and powerful, showing red-fruit aromas with good flavor intensity, an inviting floral note and those mouth-puckering tannins. If you must drink it now, gird yourself and pair it with savory cheeses or a rich meat stew or game. Otherwise, give it another three to five years to show its best. Rating: 91.
Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru.
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