Whether you are going out for a steak dinner or cooking steaks at home, there are usually three choices at the high end: beef tenderloin, rib-eye steak and what is known colloquially nationwide as New York strip, as in, “I’ll have the New York.” (In Kansas City, though, when you order a strip steak, it’s short for Kansas City strip.)
But all of these cuts make beautiful roasts, too — something to consider for your festive holiday meal.
Perhaps New York strip, technically a strip loin roast, makes the best roast of the three. While it has less marbling than a rib roast, it has more than the tenderloin. I might argue that the strip loin roast has the most flavor.
You may not find a strip loin roast in the supermarket case, but any butcher should be happy to make one for you and tie it up for the oven. A 5-pound piece will feed a table of 10. It’s easy to slice, and it makes a great roast beef sandwich.
The real key to a great-tasting roast (even an everyday wallet-friendly rump roast, the kind I grew up on) is to season it ahead of time. Whether you call it a rub, a dry brine or a dry marinade, make sure to do it at least an hour in advance. In truth, a night in the fridge is really the ideal way for the meat to absorb the seasoning’s flavors. It actually makes things easier for the cook, too. All you have to do is pull it out and let it to come to room temperature, and it’s ready to go.
Another easy way to add flavor is to lay the roast on a bed of herbs — rosemary, thyme or savory branches, or a mix — instead of a rack. This leaves the meat slightly above the bottom of the roasting pan and lends a herbaceous boost to the meat and the pan juices.
Keep the menu simple. Accompany your New York roast with roasted potatoes and parsnips, a dollop of sharp horseradish cream and a fat bunch of watercress.
Whole Roasted New York Strip Loin
Time: 1 1/2 hours, plus seasoning
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
Ingredients
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
6 allspice berries
2 tablespoons kosher salt
5 pound New York strip loin roast, tied at 2-inch intervals (ask your butcher to do this)
4 cloves garlic, grated
2 bunches rosemary, thyme or savory
3 pounds medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
3 pounds medium parsnips, peeled, cut in 3-inch lengths
1/4 pound unsalted butter, melted
1 large bunch watercress, for garnish (optional)
1 cup (8 ounces) crème fraîche
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons grated horseradish, preferably freshly grated
Small pinch cayenne
Salt and pepper
Preparation
1. Coarsely grind peppercorns and allspice together in a spice mill. Combine with salt in a small bowl. Sprinkle mixture evenly over exterior of roast. Add the grated garlic and rub in all over.
2. Line a roasting pan with herb branches and set roast on top. Leave to absorb seasonings for at least 1 hour at room temperature, or refrigerate overnight (bring back to room temperature before proceeding). Heat oven to 400 degrees.
3. In a large pot of well-salted boiling water, cook potatoes until just done, about 15 minutes. Remove with a spider or slotted spoon and place in an earthenware baking dish. In the same water, simmer parsnips until just done, about 8 minutes. Remove and add them to potatoes in baking dish. Pour melted butter over the potatoes and parsnips and use a brush to make sure they are well coated.
4. Make the horseradish sauce: Whisk together crème fraîche, Dijon mustard, horseradish and cayenne in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate.
5. Roast the beef, uncovered, for about 1 hour. Check with an instant-read thermometer after 45 minutes. For medium-rare, take the roast out of the oven when thermometer registers 120 degrees (residual heat will cause roast to continue cooking as it rests). Remove the roast, tent it with foil, and let it rest for 15 minutes; the temperature should rise to 125 degrees. About 15 minutes after the roast goes into the oven, put in the baking dish of potatoes and parsnips, uncovered, and roast until beautifully golden brown, about 30 minutes.
6. Slice the beef into 1/4-inch-thick pieces and arrange on a warmed platter, garnished with a big bunch of watercress. Pass the roasted vegetables and horseradish sauce separately.
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