What it is: A session pale ale, which is code for a hop-forward beer that has little alcohol — less than 5 percent, which, for instance, is less than Budweiser or Coors — and little body or malt character. Session pale ales (and session India pale ales, which are essentially the same thing) were all the rage last summer, and for a simple reason: When done well, they're light and bright with juicy aromatic hops, but refreshing due in part to the relative lack of booze. I ranked 22 session IPAs last year, and though Xtra-Citra is deemed a pale ale, it would easily have placed in the top five. As session hop-beer season returns, this new entry from Minneapolis' Surly Brewing is one to keep high on your list.
In the can: All great session pale ales and IPAs start with luscious aromatics, and Xtra-Citra has them in abundance from the moment the can is peeled open: mango, tangerine and a spry grassy freshness. Those flavors mingle in a rush of fresh hoppy tropicality (a signature of fresh Citra hops) that follow through on a long, fruity finish. Those looking for balance or body in the beer won't find it here; Xtra-Citra is thin, like most hop session ales. Though a fairly one-dimensional beer, it's a delicious dimension and shows why those fruity Citra hops have been all the rage for the last few years.
Alcohol: 4.5 percent
Drink it with: The brightness of Xtra-Citra makes it a perfect accompaniment to a backyard barbecue. Try it with a burger — meat or veggie.
Find it: Available in four packs of 16-ounce cans at better beer stores through at least May.
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