Rates
From 200 euros a night, or about $215 at $1.07 to the euro.
Basics
Lille prides itself on its heritage, but few hotels have been able to encapsulate the richness of the city’s history while offering modern comforts. This independent boutique hotel, opened last April, successfully does both, honoring its past by preserving original design features like parquet flooring, chimneys and period mirrors, and lending contemporary touches through wall murals and furnishings. Housed in a former hôtel particulier, or private mansion, erected in 1736 by the Count and Countess of Hespel, the 19-room property benefits from its own expansive garden, a fine-dining restaurant and common spaces featuring contemporary works by French and international artists.
Location
In the heart of the Vieux Lille, the city’s charming Old Town, and within a 10-minute walk to Méert, the patisserie, chocolate shop and tea salon that opened in 1761 (known for its delectable waffles), and landmarks like the Grand Place and the Opéra de Lille. La Piscine, an art and industry museum, is 20 minutes away in Roubaix, requiring a car or a ride on the local train.
The room
A poem by Baudelaire acts as the welcome message on a plaque outside each of the 19 rooms and suites, all appointed differently. I stayed in the Prestige room, one notch above the basic unit, overlooking the garden. Design flourishes like jeweled light fixtures, art deco wall prints and long drapery were set amid a sophisticated palette of creams, taupes and grays. Large windows opened to the sound of chirping birds and the hourly ring of church bells at St. Catherine’s, just behind the garden. My room’s cozy reading banquette was the perfect spot to take in the view and relax.
The bathroom
The midsize bathroom fit two people comfortably. However, as add-ons to the original structure, the modern bathrooms lack the historical cachet of the rest of the hotel. Mine featured an off-white pedestal sink with a spacious pullout drawer, energizing ginseng bath products by Clarins, a Bluetooth-equipped mirror that allows guests to play their own music (the only mirror in my room) and a walk-in rain shower that was only partially enclosed. While sleek in design, it did little to prevent water from spraying outside the shower stall.
Amenities
There’s a complimentary mini bar, Bluetooth speaker system, coffee machine and high-powered Wi-Fi. Public spaces are comfortable and welcoming. Bicycles are free, supplied by Le Grand Huit, a local bike tour and outdoor excursions company. It also offers city bike tours that can be reserved through the hotel concierge ($20 per person; four riders minimum).
Dining
The hotel’s modern French restaurant, La Table, is presided over by a Michelin-star-honored chef, Nicolas Pourcheresse, and is a popular destination among well-heeled locals. The food skews seasonal and hearty, incorporating herbs foraged from the garden. Room service is a slightly edited version of the restaurant menu and available à la carte around the clock. I ordered the continental breakfast ($32), which was delivered on time; generous portions were a pleasant surprise.
Bottom line
With its tranquil garden and sophisticated revival of 18th-century charms, the Clarance is a chic home base for exploring one of France’s most scenic northern towns.
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Clarance Hotel Lille, 32, rue de la Barre; 33-3-59-36-35-59; clarancehotel.com
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