Kirk Parks has long been a trailblazer.
When he first became a pastry chef, he brought the tools of the construction trade, tools he learned to use at his dad’s side, to the table. PVC pipe worked perfectly for molds. A notched trowel spread chocolate evenly but with an interesting texture.
Eleven years ago when Kevin Rathbun opened Rathbun’s in an old potbelly stove factory off Krog Street, Parks, along with third partner Cliff Bramble, was at his side taking a chance on what was then a gritty industrial district.
Now that part of Atlanta’s Inman Park neighborhood is home to Krog Street Market and a host of other restaurants including Rathbun’s own Krog Bar and Kevin Rathbun Steak.
When they opened Rathbun’s, Parks blazed yet another trail, creating a collection of desserts that were small, but big in flavor.
“I said we have to make sure everybody has dessert. We started off offering them individually and it wasn’t long before we had ‘Kirks’ Favorite Four’ because really, who could choose just one?” The collection of small desserts was ideal for sharing. Diners could savor one bite and then pass it along for others at the table to enjoy.
Parks met his goal. Three out of four guests at Rathbun’s order dessert which is more than double the industry average.
Parks says people may be adventurous when they’re ordering appetizers, but when it comes to dessert? They go for the memories. “It’s about ‘what did my mom make?’ So our job is to take those memories and twist them a little.”
He does this with the help of three pastry chefs, one at each restaurant. Rebecca Weil has been with Rathbun’s for 11 years. Joy Jessup is pastry chef for Kevin Rathbun Steak, and has been there five years, and Kylie Akiyama has been KR Steakbar’s pastry chef for just over four months.
The desserts on their menu change with the seasons, but also in response to guest needs and requests. “Gluten sensitivity has been a major topic in the last few years, adding a challenge to the ingredients we use for some of our desserts. But we always have gluten-free options on the dessert menus at all the restaurants.”
Guests are also interested in the source of their food. “Local products are always more appealing. We buy from local farmers whenever possible; and always use products that are seasonal. Our savvy guests want to understand if the fruit was tree ripened, if there were pesticides sprayed on the vegetables and if the animals where treated humanely. We have listened to their feedback!”
Parks worked in restaurants as a young man but hadn’t planned to make it his career. He worked in a steel mill, following in the footsteps of his father. But when the bottom fell out of the steel business, he decided to go back to the restaurant business. He was in Houston at the time where he met Rathbun. “But I knew if I became a chef I’d have to leave him one day. When I realized all great chefs have a pastry chef in their back pocket, I decided that was what I’d do. It turned out to be something I loved and has let all my dreams come true.”
Parks and Rathbun came to Atlanta in 1995 to open Nava. Nine years later they opened Rathbun’s and the signature dessert at the time, still on the menu today, was Parks’ Banana Peanut Butter Cream Pie, a 4-inch tart layered with peanut butter, bananas and vanilla cream, topped with meringue.
Four desserts that are proof good things come in small packages.
Kevin Rathbun Steak Praline Bavarian
Bavarians may not be in every home cook’s repertoire but Kevin Rathbun Steak pastry chef Joy Jessup says that may be because home cooks are sometimes afraid of cooking with gelatin. “I like the texture of Bavarians and gelatin is so easy to use. You can think of this as an upscale pudding.” Her simple but classic recipe flavors the Bavarian with praline, a hazelnut paste that’s one of her favorites.
Jessup garnishes these Bavarians with apples poached in apple cider with cinnamon sticks and vanilla beans, Sugared Almond Streusel and white chocolate pearls.
Sheet gelatin makes for the smoothest texture. It’s available at Star Provisions or at Cake Art in Tucker. Cake Art also carries praline paste, or it can be ordered online.
Praline paste can separate like natural peanut butter so be sure to stir it thoroughly before measuring. A can of praline paste is 11 ounces. This recipe only uses 8 ounces, so enjoy the remainder as a delicious spread on toast. It’s Nutella without the chocolate.
If you don’t wish to use sheet gelatin, substitute 1 envelope plus 1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin.
1/3 cup granulated sugar
4 egg yolks
3/4 cup milk
2 cups heavy cream, divided
4 sheets gelatin
8 ounces praline paste
Sugared Almond Streusel (see recipe), for garnish
In a medium bowl, whisk together sugar and egg yolks. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine milk and 3/4 cup cream and bring to a boil. By tablespoons, add 1/2 cup of the hot milk-cream mixture to the sugar and egg yolks, whisking to combine. Then whisk that mixture into the hot milk and cream. Simmer mixture, whisking constantly, until it reaches 185 degrees. Remove from heat. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl.
Add gelatin sheets to a bowl of ice water and allow to soften. Stir softened sheets into warm milk mixture and stir in praline paste.
Whip remaining 1 1/4 cups cream to medium peaks and fold into praline mixture. Pour mixture into small glasses and chill until set. Garnish Bavarians with Sugared Almond Streusel. Makes: 5 cups
Per 1/2-cup serving: 330 calories (percent of calories from fat, 70), 5 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 26 grams fat (12 grams saturated), 152 milligrams cholesterol, 34 milligrams sodium.
Sugared Almond Streusel
Candied almonds are widely available at grocery stores, generally found near the salad ingredients in the produce section.
Scant 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
Scant 1/4 cup almond flour
2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup crushed candied almonds
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, diced
Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
In a medium bowl, whisk together all-purpose flour, almond flour and brown sugar. Add almonds and butter and stir together until mixture forms small grains. Spread mixture on a small rimmed baking sheet and bake 20 minutes or until golden. Stir mixture occasionally while baking. Allow to cool before using. Makes: 1 1/4 cups
Per 1-tablespoon serving: 38 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 1 gram protein, 4 grams carbohydrates, trace fiber, 2 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 3 milligrams cholesterol, 1 milligram sodium.
Rathbun’s Dulce de Leche Swirled Pumpkin Cheesecake
There’s always a cheesecake on the menu at Rathbun’s and pastry chef Rebecca Weil created this particular version to debut during Inman Park Restaurant Week, September 21 through 27. “I love dulce de leche and our diners like nostalgic desserts so we always have a cheesecake on the menu. This combination of flavors is right for the end of summer. It’s when we start being ready for butterscotch and caramel flavors that remind us of fall.”
At the restaurant, dulce de leche is made by cooking down cans of sweetened condensed milk. But canned dulce de leche is now available at the grocery store next to the cans of sweetened condensed milk, saving the home cook quite a bit of time.
For the sugared pecan garnish, heat chopped pecans in a skillet, then remove from heat and toss with granulated sugar.
1 cup graham cracker crumbs (about 7 sheets)
4 tablespoons melted unsalted butter
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
1 pound cream cheese, at room temperature
3/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
2 eggs, at room temperature
5 ounces canned plain pumpkin
1/2 cup sour cream, at room temperature
1 (14-ounce) can dulce de leche
Caramel Sauce (see recipe)
Chopped sugared pecans, for garnish
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease 12 4-ounce ramekins and arrange on a rimmed baking sheet.
In a small bowl, stir together graham cracker crumbs, butter and 2 tablespoons sugar. Sprinkle a scant 2 tablespoons of the mixture into each prepared ramekin. Press lightly to form a bottom crust. Bake ramekins 10 minutes. Remove from oven and turn temperature down to 250 degrees.
While crusts are baking, make cheesecake mixture: in the bowl of a stand mixer using a paddle attachment, combine cream cheese, remaining 1/2 cup sugar and pumpkin pie spice. Beat until smooth, scraping bowl occasionally to be sure there no lumps of cream cheese remain. Add eggs, one at a time. Then add pumpkin and sour cream. When mixture is smooth and thoroughly combined, divide between prepared ramekins.
Put dulce de leche into a piping bag and pipe a spiral over the cheesecake filling. Alternately, you can use a spoon to drop dulce de leche onto the filling. Use a chopstick or skewer to swirl the mixture. Bake cheesecakes 35 minutes or until the center is just set. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Refrigerate at least overnight before serving. Garnish with Caramel Sauce and chopped sugared pecans, if desired.
Makes: 12
Per serving: 318 calories (percent of calories from fat, 64), 7 grams protein, 22 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 23 grams fat (14 grams saturated), 101 milligrams cholesterol, 207 milligrams sodium.
Caramel Sauce
This simple recipe produces a luscious caramel sauce that will keep in the refrigerator for up a month. Warm before using.
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons corn syrup
1 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
Fleur de sel, if desired
In a medium saucepan, combine sugar, water and corn syrup and bring to a boil over medium heat. Brush sides of pot with a wet pastry brush to dissolve any grains of sugar. Cook mixture until it reaches a golden brown.
Remove from heat and slowly add cream. Mixture will bubble up. Stir in butter and whisk until mixture is smooth. Add a few pinches of salt if desired. Makes: 2 1/2 cups
Per 1-tablespoon serving: 72 calories (percent of calories from fat, 41), trace protein, 11 grams carbohydrates, no fiber, 3 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 11 milligrams cholesterol, 7 milligrams sodium.
KR Steakbar’s Chocolate Decadence
The name of this recipe says it all. It’s chocolate and it’s truly decadent. Kylie Akiyama, KR Steakbar’s pastry chef, inherited the recipe when she came to the restaurant five months ago. She tweaks occasionally, this time adding orange zest and Grand Mariner, then garnishing each individual serving with sweetened whipped cream, orange segments and a sprinkling of cocoa nibs.
“If you’re a chocolate lover, this is the dessert for you,” says Akiyama. “It’s not too sweet, but still fudgy, creamy and dense.”
At the restaurant this is made in silicone molds, but individual ramekins or a muffin tin work almost as well. Be sure to chill the dessert before unmolding.
7 ounces (about 1 1/4 cups roughly chopped) 68% dark chocolate
9 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon brewed coffee
1 cup granulated sugar
3 eggs
1/2 teaspoon orange zest
1 1/2 tablespoons Grand Marnier, optional
Preheat oven to 200 degrees. Lightly grease 8 4-ounce ramekins and arrange on a rimmed baking sheet. You may use a standard size muffin tin instead.
In a double boiler, combine chocolate, butter and coffee and heat until chocolate is melted. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.
In a small bowl, stir together sugar, eggs and orange zest. Stir into chocolate mixture and whisk well to combine. Add Grand Marnier, if using. Divide the mixture between prepared ramekins, filling three-quarters full. Bake ramekins 40 minutes or just until the cakes do not move when gently shaken. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate at least one hour before serving. Serves: 8
Per serving: 367 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 4 grams protein, 41 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 22 grams fat (9 grams saturated), 114 milligrams cholesterol, 31 milligrams sodium.
Rathbun’s Anjou Pear Streusel Galette
Kirk Parks, owner and pastry chef for all the Rathbun’s restaurants, likes dreaming up seasonal desserts. “We pride ourselves on creating desserts with big flavors. Pears may be my favorite fruits. But it’s easy to overpower them in a dessert.” These galettes have no competing flavors, so the pears are the star.
Galettes are freeform tarts with no requirement for fancy shaping and trimming. Parks’ pastry uses shortening. which makes for an easy-to-roll crust that bakes up crisp and flaky.
Crust:
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups shortening
1 cups cold water, or as needed
Filling:
6 Anjou pears, peeled, cored and diced
1 cup granulated sugar
Streusel:
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
Sweetened whipped cream, baked streusel and Caramel Sauce (see recipe), for serving
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
Make pastry dough: into a large bowl, sift together flour, sugar and salt. Using fingers, crumble shortening into flour mixture until shortening is in pea-sized pieces. Make a well in the middle of the mixture and add water, a little at a time, mixing until dough just comes together. Pat the dough into a round, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate while preparing filling and streusel.
Make filling: in a medium bowl combine diced pears and sugar. Set aside.
Make streusel: in a medium bowl, stir together flour, sugar and cinnamon. Using fingers or a pastry cutter, cut butter into mixture until there are no visible signs of butter. Set aside.
Make galettes: divide pastry dough into eight equal pieces. Roll each piece out until it is a circle approximately 8 inches in diameter. Divide pear filling between circles. Pull edges of dough towards center of galette, leaving some of the pears exposed. Spoon streusel over pears and arrange galettes on baking sheet. Bake 20 minutes or until crust is golden. Allow to cool before serving.
Spread remaining streusel mixture in a rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden. Remove from oven, cool and break into small pieces.
Serve galettes with sweetened whipped cream, baked streusel and caramel sauce, if desired. Serves: 8
Per serving: 792 calories (percent of calories from fat, 49), 6 grams protein, 97 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams fiber, 44 grams fat (12 grams saturated), 12 milligrams cholesterol, 269 milligrams sodium.
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