In Omaha, Nebraska, land of steak, there is an oasis of French cooking — the witty and charming Le Bouillon, which opened in the Old Market district in December 2013. The food at Le Bouillon is what Paul Kulik, its chef, who also runs the popular Boiler Room, describes as “everyday French fare,” an attitude also reflected in a chatty and informed staff and an unpretentious vibe.
There is a Gallic legacy to the airy brick building, which dates to 1880: It was once home to the French Cafe, Old Market’s first restaurant, which operated for more than 40 years. The structure would have been torn down in the 1960s had it not been for Sam Mercer, a financier and lawyer. Luckily for patrons, Mercer stepped in “at the nth hour and the 59th second,” Kulik said. The building, now owned by Mercer’s son, is decorated with furniture salvaged from the French Cafe and features original wooden floors, occasionally carpeted.
The menu draws from various French regions, including Aquitaine (hearty fare with a judicious use of goose and duck fat) and Basque country (plenty of seafood), as well as ingredients from local Nebraska producers.
Not everything is regional, though: The restaurant flies in oysters from both coasts for its raw bar. During a recent visit, our fresh bivalves were paired with two tangy sauces: a classic mignonette and a creamy sauce maison made with mayonnaise and spices. Our sommelier recommended a Chablis (Le Bouillon has an extensive wine list), assuring us that its “salty notes would complement the briny oysters.” They did.
As a nod to Nebraska, I ordered the local corn soup, which was silky and buttery with a dab of chorizo oil that held it together. Mediterranean cuisine was represented by the arroz à la plancha, a fragrant bed of Calasparra rice with braised short rib and oyster mushrooms. Large plates like the braised Wagyu beef cheeks were made juicy with a red wine reduction and accompanied by a shaved celery and carrot salad.
For some reason, crunchy sunflower sprouts arrived on many of our dishes that night, though the menu descriptions called for none. We chalked it up to Kulik’s fresh, seasonal approach: If sunflower sprouts are ripe and available, why not?
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