ARGOSY

470 Flat Shoals Ave., Atlanta. 404-577-0407, www.argosy-east.com. $$

1 of 5 stars [a worthy addition to its neighborhood, but the food is hit and miss]

At its core, this East Atlanta spot is a craft beer-driven pub, with more than 30 taps and more than 100 bottles. But with such a large space and number of seats, it must take a small army to properly staff. Unfortunately, the most consistent part of my multiple visits is the distinct feeling that Argosy is a few soldiers short, with a disjointed and frantic staff.

I wonder if the fault for my overcooked and lukewarm grilled pork chop lies with the kitchen or the server allowing it to sit on the window too long. One evening, while waiting for our desserts, we had to inform a pair of very confused runners that we had just finished the two entrees they were attempting to deliver to our table for a second time. By the time the bread pudding finally arrived, the ice cream was more of a vanilla soup.

Some of the less fussy pub-style eats may be the best route to go here, like one of the 100 percent house-made hot dogs. The Admiral — a pizza topped with mozzarella, Spotted Trotter pepperoni, chorizo and arugula — isn’t going to win any awards, but it remains a good bar snack to split with a group.

Jon Watson