COMMON QUARTER

1205 Johnson Ferry Road, Marietta. www.commonquarter.com. $$-$$$

[2 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to the neighborhood, and the food is consistent.

Common Quarter’s brand of Southern hospitality is infused into each facet of the dining experience there, affording the restaurant a unique draw.

Everything from the relaxed coastal decor to the young staff in logo T-shirts and ball caps reflects the atmosphere it has worked to cultivate. Even the food, which may challenge our expectations of Southern fare, has an honesty to it. The risks that chef Jeffrey Gardner takes stem from intellectual curiosity rather than a desire to drive sales with shock value.

The chicken and dumplings may have you questioning what this humble comfort dish should be. Grandma might not recognize the airline chicken breast with perfectly blistered skin surrounded by red-hued tasso gravy and the pillowy gnocchi-style white-cheddar dumplings.

Also, consider dishes like the homey farro mac and cheese, and meatballs with sharp tomato sauce and pecan pesto over grits. The pecan pesto adds variation in texture and delays the inevitable tomato monotony.

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