Pieces fall into place at Roswell’s Italian newcomer

The puzzle is beginning to come together at Osteria Mattone, Roswell’s new Italian osteria-trattoria hybrid and sister restaurant to Table & Main.

Each member of the assembled team brings unique strengths to this restaurant. Owner Ryan Pernice masterfully manages the dining experience while chef and co-owner Ted Lahey brings relatable cooking that has a polished simplicity and the potential to ascend from good to great. The restaurant also benefits from Dan Pernice’s well-considered beverage program and pastry chef Micki Kimberly’s understanding of the dessert experience.

Lahey makes a mean mess of sausage and peppers, a perfectly rustic and hearty bowl of comfort. Go more upscale with the trio of Australian lamb chops. Grill flavors provide the backdrop for the medium-rare meat brushed with a balsamic lamb jus glaze and served over a creamy gush of mushroom risotto. End with Kimberly’s Baba Rhum, with pillowy, rum-soaked brioche luxuriating in a pool of creme anglaise with marsala raisins.