Mavericks Cantina, Johns Creek

Like many chefs before him, Nicholas St. Clair of Antebellum has chosen to open a crowd-pleasing modern Mexican taqueria for his sophomore effort. But while you can scratch the itch for a taco and margarita, you won’t find any of the precision or wit that marks the chef’s cooking at his Flowery Branch treasure.

The best expression of what I hoped to get from St. Clair came in the form of a colorful salad of creamy avocado, sweet pineapple, crunchy jicama sticks and a tart charred-lime vinaigrette. Fried chicken tacos came aggressively seasoned and loaded with vinegary Alabama white barbecue sauce and sweet chow chow that spilled from warm tortillas. Finger — er, arm — licking good.

I might skip the heavy-handed pork belly torta and think twice about reordering the tough, extra greasy churros with spiced Mexican hot chocolate. But other tacos, such as grouper with pineapple, pickled jalapenos and a delightful lime crema, pair well with the margaritas and friendly conversation.