BAR MEATBALL

1044 Greenwood Ave. N.E., Atlanta. www.barmeatball.com.

[2 of 5 stars] A worthy addition to its neighborhood and the food is consistent. $-$$

Bar Meatball, located in Virginia Highland, is a bold new concept designed entirely around meatballs.

Here, you are the master of design, inventing your own plate from a list of sauces, meatballs, breads and sides that provide a seemingly limitless number of potential combinations. With a few visits and a little persistence, you’ll root out one that works for you. Until you do, you’ll return for the reasonable prices and welcoming environment, as the staff and owners make you feel part of their New York Italian family.

You’ll quickly find that matching up components correctly is the key to a happy belly here. Go old-school with the classic beef meatballs topped with tomato sauce for the best bite. Or, pair the chicken-and-rosemary meatballs with the arugula-walnut pesto. The vibrant green pesto brings freshness, salty parmesan and the soft crunch of walnuts to play against the herbed chicken.

Kudos and bonus points to Bar Meatball for daring to introduce this concept. It might take a couple of tries, but you’ll find your groove here. In the meantime, don’t miss the fresh, hot zeppoles.