Thirsty Dog Tavern

There’s a lot going on at Thirsty Dog Tavern in South Buckhead.

The freestanding Peachtree Road space has been home to a string of restaurants of various persuasions, including Mick’s and, most recently, Vita. But Thirsty Dog is really different, something like a mongrel mash-up of a sports pub, Italian red sauce joint and dog park.

Seriously.

Dogs and smokes

David Heany, who once owned Atlanta’s Star Community Bar, and Atlanta restaurateur Tony LaRocco, the man behind Fratelli di Napoli and Vita, teamed up for the transformation, even if the decor and layout hasn’t changed much since LaRocco ran Vita as a sort of Italian supper club.

The huge sunken dining room is flanked by a stage and a cozy raised bar, where the TVs are usually tuned to Braves baseball or Georgia Lottery keno. There’s also a small game room and a secluded smoking lounge in back.

Outside, beyond the covered patio, is a pet-friendly area with tables where you can dine with your dog and a grassy knoll where they can do a bit of business next to a red fire hydrant.

One recent evening, several canines and their owners were entertained by a pampered feline perched on a table top. But the dogs are the ones with the Milk-Bone happy hour and special menu, including kibble ($3.95), hot dogs ($3.95) and even filet mignon ($13.95).

People food

LaRocco’s sprawling people menu recalls the one he created for McCray’s 6th Street Tavern in Midtown, though, unlike McCray’s, there aren’t 45 beers on the wall.

Pub grub and Italian classics mix with steaks and a bit of seafood, with entrees topping out at $18.95 for beef tenderloin with a garlic wine reduction.

The mother sauce of LaRocco’s cooking is a light marinara made with Italian tomatoes and fresh herbs. In his signature rigatoni ala vodka ($10.95), the marinara is mixed with vodka-flamed garlic, cream and sauteed cremini and white mushrooms, making a silky, delicately flavorful match for the hearty pasta.

Sweet Italian pork sausage and tender beef, pork and veal meatballs in marinara show up in several guises, including starters, sandwiches and pasta dishes.

Burgers, hot dogs, po’ boys and wraps, served with house-made chips or French fries, are on the lengthy sandwich menu. The tasty grilled chicken breast panini ($9.95), layered with roasted red peppers, melted provolone cheese and pesto mayo on house-made focaccia bread, is a good bet.

Booze and brunch

Look for bar specials several nights a week, including free well drinks for women from 5-9 p.m. on Tuesdays and half-price bottles of wine on Wednesdays. Brunch is served 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays, featuring a 30-ingredient build-your-own Bloody Mary bar.

Dining out

Thirsty Dog Tavern

Address, phone: 2110 Peachtree Road, 404-367-8482

Signature dish: Rigatoni ala vodka

Entree prices: $8.95-$18.95

Hours: 4 p.m. -- midnight Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 11 a.m. -- midnight Sundays -- Brunch: 11:30 a.m. -- 3:30 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays -- Bar open late.