“The Comfort of Apples” a modern take on the favorite fall fruit

Philip Rubin admits he didn’t know much about apples before he began doing research for the new cookbook he wrote with his wife, Lauren.

“I grew up in New York City,” Rubin said. “I have the least agricultural background you could imagine.”

But a day trip spent picking apples at a nearby orchard with their son, Henry, led the Rubins to wonder, “What do we do with them?”

The answer became “The Comfort of Apples: Modern Recipes for an Old-Fashioned Favorite” (Lyons Press, $19.95).

The Rubins met at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City and own the Manhattan catering company, 2 Peas & A Pot.

They put those backgrounds together to present nearly 100 recipes that go way beyond apple pie into bold savory realms with the likes of crostini with clams, bacon and apples and miso-and-apple-marinated hanger steak.

“There are apple cookbooks out there, but you see the same sorts of recipes for pies and cobblers," Rubin said. “I thought the subject deserved a contemporary take.

“Apples lend themselves to all kinds of dishes. It’s one of the few ingredients you could use to create a complete cookbook from starters and entrees to sides and desserts, and even condiments. Of course, we use apple cider in a lot of the recipes.”

“The Comfort of Apples” also includes a short history of American apple growing, and tips for cooking with apples, including equipment to make the process easier and more creative.

“We love cutting devices like mandolins and peelers,” Rubin said. “And we use melon ballers to neatly remove the core and create interesting decorative shapes.”

The book includes a chart of apple varieties broken down by flavor (“sweet,” “sweet-tart,” or “tart”) and use (“eating” or “pie”).

While apples are available year-round, nowadays, Rubin said autumn is the season to find the best and most unusual varieties at orchards and farmer’s markets.

“When you focus on one ingredient, like an apple, it really opens your eyes to the absolute difference between seasons,” Rubin said. “An apple in season is just so much better in every way.”

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Recipes

These recipes from “The Comfort of Apples” use the fruit in surprising ways, from sweet and sophisticated to savory and spicy.

Recipes and introductions adapted from “The Comfort of Apples” by Philip and Lauren Rubin (Lyons Press, $19.95)

Styling by Lisa Hanson and Bob Townsend

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Coconut Panna Cotta with Caramel Apples

Panna cotta, which means “cooked cream” in Italian, is simple to make, yet looks impressive, with or without a sauce. It should be smooth and light, not too firm. Follow the seasons when thinking of accompaniments. Here, it’s given the fall/winter treatment with caramel-coated apples.

Serves 6

Hands-on time: 30 minutes / Total time: 40 minutes plus overnight for setting

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons warm water

2 ½ teaspoons gelatin

1 ½ cups coconut milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ cup honey

1 ½ cups whole milk

2 cups cider

2 apples, peeled and turned with a melon baller

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

zest of 2 limes

For the panna cotta:

In a small bowl, add the warm water and sprinkle the gelatin on top. Let sit 10 minutes.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the coconut milk, vanilla and honey and bring to a simmer. Whisk the gelatin into the coconut milk until smooth.

Remove from heat.

In a large bowl, add the whole milk.

Pour the coconut milk mixture into the bowl with the whole milk and whisk until smooth. Using a ladle, divide the custard into 6 4-ounce ramekins and refrigerate overnight.

For the caramel apples:

In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add the cider and reduce until syrupy, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the apples and butter, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until tender. The cider should coat the apples with a light caramel.

To serve:

Unmold the panna cotta and place one in the center of each plate. Surround with caramel apples and sprinkle the lime zest over tops.

Per serving: 327 calories (percent of calories from fat, 53), 4 grams protein, 36 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 20 grams fat (16 grams saturated), 19 milligrams cholesterol, 48 milligrams sodium.

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Butternut Squash and Apple Soup

Soup should be a smooth, friendly spoonful, which is why this is a lasting combination. Some ingredients just work well together: butternut squash and apples have a complementary, mellow sweetness.

Serves 6

Hands-on time: 40 minutes / Total time: 1 hour 10 minutes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 yellow onion, coarsely chopped

1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed

4 cups apples, peeled, cored and chopped

4 carrots, peeled and chopped

1 quart chicken stock

¼ teaspoon cinnamon

Salt and pepper

½ cup walnut halves

4 ounces goat cheese, sliced in ¼ -inch rounds

In a large pot over medium heat, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the squash, apples, carrots, stock and cinnamon and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to low, cover the pot and simmer until the vegetables are soft when pierced with a fork, 20 to 30 minutes.

Using a blender or food processor, ladle in the vegetables and half of the broth. Puree until very smooth. Return soup to the pot and stir in the remaining broth, one ladleful at a time, until you reach the desired smooth consistency. Season well with salt and pepper.