Nothing new under the Tuscan sun

Are you from somewhere north of the Mason-Dixon line, a Rust Belt city, or another place with a large Italian-American population? Then you know this restaurant, which set up shop late last year on the edge of the Historic Roswell dining constellation. It’s wineglasses and tablecloths, a soundtrack given over to jazz standard crooners, and a waiter who disperses the parmesan from a lofted spoon like manna.

If the kitchen doesn’t quite muster old-school charm or finesse, you can have fun, particularly if you focus more on the small plates and starters. Fried goat cheese balls as well as a mixed roasted beet salad tossed with thick curls of fennel and more goat cheese made for easy eating.

Saffron pappardelle with bolognese and a scoop of green “pesto ricotta” was pretty to look at and lusty in flavor, with big chunks of meat. You might skip the chicken breast, its skin obliterated by a blanket of cheese and its garnish consisting largely of canned artichoke hearts.

Take solace in the crisp cannolis for dessert. Seriously, who can resist a cannoli?