Dining Out
Seven Lamps, Buckhead
11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mondays-Sundays.
Small plates and snacks, $4-$12; charcuterie and cheese plates, $6-$25; pasta, $10-$18; large plates, $10-$24; desserts, $4-$7.
3400 Around Lenox Road, No. 217, Atlanta, 404-467-8950, www.sevenlampsatl.com
Seven Lamps, chef Drew Van Leuvan’s new Buckhead restaurant, takes its name from an essay on architectural ideals by Victorian artist and critic John Ruskin. But beyond the high concept, the atmosphere is communal and convivial, and the food and drink are crafty but comfortable.
The look: Situated in a corner storefront at Shops Around Lenox, the design by ASD exudes rustic-modern architectural details, with vertical brick walls, desk lamps repurposed as light fixtures, reclaimed wood from an old mill, and smooth granite and wood tables. A courtyard patio features a fire pit, herb garden and billowing umbrella tents.
The scene: Open is the guiding principle of a mise en scene that blurs the lines between diners, drinkers, chefs, bartenders and servers. The exhibition kitchen is a buzzing space surrounded by jarred veggies and neat stacks of firewood. The open bar is fitted into a tiny three-sided bump-out. One recent evening, Van Leuvan worked the pass and the dining room, chatting and shaking hands, while beverage manager Arianne Fielder mixed cocktails and delivered them, too.
The menu: Van Leuvan is known for his handmade pasta, and the likes of agnolotti with fontina, ricotta and pancetta, and tagliatelle with Sapelo Island clams, andouille sausage and jalapeño are available in half or full portions ($10/$18). Van Leuvan's take on hot chicken is cayenne-crusted fried oysters served on white bread with bread and butter pickles and Duke's mayo ($8). Large plates include wood-roasted chicken breast with black gnocchi, black trumpet mushrooms, pancetta and pickled roots ($19).
The drinks: Fielder's beverage menu leads with cocktails divided into categories such as effervescent, beer-tails and classically inspired. The Roger Williams Manhattan ($13) mixes Templeton Rye, Dolin dry vermouth, cranberry syrup, orange bitters and candied cranberry. A "drinkable dessert" called Crunch Punch ($10) is Peanut Butter Cap'n Crunch-infused Redemption Rye with vanilla syrup, cream and nutmeg. A recent craft beer list included Hitachino Nest White Ale ($8) and Left Hand Milk Stout Nitro ($7).
The extras: Lunch is served from 11 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. every day, including Saturdays and Sundays, with sandwiches replacing the large plates found on the dinner menu. Look for warm ham and cheese made with porchetta and Gruyere ($12) and corned beef brisket with kimchee slaw on a pretzel roll ($10).
