First Look: Revival, Decatur

At his first restaurant, Gunshow, Kevin Gillespie of Woodfire Grill and “Top Chef” fame broke the fine dining mold with a bright, loud, happening space, where a crew of chefs deliver their own cross-cultural dishes tableside and chat up guests. At his new restaurant, the recently opened Revival in Decatur, Gillespie returns to his Georgia roots with the kind of Southern-inspired dishes and hospitality that conjure Sunday supper with the family.

The look: Located on Church Street in a renovated single-family home that was most recently the site of Harbour House Pub, the space is pleasantly comfortable, with a wide, welcoming front porch, and areas that were once the living room or perhaps a bedroom transformed into cozy dining sections. A fireplace in the foyer, bookshelves with knick knacks, antique furnishings and Gillespie family photos on the walls add to the homey feel.

The scene: One recent Sunday evening, the crowd was noticeably family oriented, with small children and multiple generations at some tables. But the tidy bar was a drinks and dinner destination for several couples.

The food: Executive chef Andreas Müller, who previously worked at Gunshow, takes on the food of Gillespie’s childhood with a menu that includes entrees such as fried chicken ($13), bacon-wrapped grass-fed beef and pork meatloaf ($11) and spiced Mississippi catfish in tomato gravy ($14). Seasonal sides ($4-$6) include the likes of field peas and butter beans in sweet cream butter with dill and green cabbage with confit ham. Guests can order dishes à la carte or choose the family-style option ($42 per person), which includes a choice of entrées served with hors d’oeuvre, relishes, sides, and a choice of dessert, plus tea and coffee service.

The drinks: During our visit, the bar was still getting up to speed, but look for classic cocktails, with some signature drinks such as the Toasted Old Fashioned crossing over from Gunshow, and an affordable selection of beer and wine by the glass.

The extras: In the near future, plans call for all-day dinner service on Saturday and Sunday and lunch and afternoon tea service Monday-Friday.

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