First Look: Peter Chang Chinese Cuisine

Dubbed the disappearing chef, last year Peter Chang was the subject of lengthy pieces by Calvin Trillin in the New Yorker and Todd Kilman in the Oxford American.

Trillin and Kilman are participant-observers of the cult of “Changians” — fans who’ve followed the peripatetic Chang from an unassuming strip center spot in Fairfax, Va., to stops in Marietta, Knoxville and Charlottesville, drawn by his dazzling Sichuan-style cooking, and fascinated by his mysterious ways of suddenly vanishing and reappearing.

Needless to say, Atlanta foodies who created a major buzz around Chang’s sojourn at Marietta’s Tasty China were overjoyed when he resurfaced in December, opening Peter Chang Chinese Cuisine in Sandy Springs.

The look: "Pleasantly unlikely" may be the best description of Chang’s surprisingly fancy new Chattahoochee River-hugging digs on Powers Ferry Road. Formerly home to Olives Waterside, the sprawling two-story structure has the woodsy look of a lodge, with hefty timbers and stone fireplaces, softened by green curtains and floral carpeting.

The scene: There are some 180 seats in the bar and dining areas, including spaces for private parties. But on a recent Sunday afternoon, several large families enjoying soup served in huge clay pots and a few couples seated at cozy booths with a river view were among the smattering of diners. It was easy to spot a group of Changians, giddily perusing the pages of the meandering, 100-plus item menu.

The menu: Chang’s offerings start with snacks such as hot and numbing beef wraps ($7) and appetizers such as deep-fried "Peter Rolls" ($7). The remainder of the menu is divided among the likes of “Chef Specialties” (Sichuan deep-fried duck, $20), “Chinese Local Dishes” (cumin lamb, $17), “American Chinese Dishes” (chicken with eggplant in clay pot, $13) and the familiar “Tasty China Sichuan Menu” (braised fish in chili oil, $16).

The drinks: There are plans for an extensive wine and sake menu. Right now, though, bring your own bottles for a $10 corkage fee or choose from a small selection of American and Chinese beers.

The extras: Generous weekday lunch deals ($9) run 11 a.m. -- 3 p.m Mondays -- Fridays. Look for Chang’s creative whims to show up as special additions to the regular dinner menu. And call ahead for pickup orders.

Dining out

Peter Chang Chinese Cuisine, Sandy Springs

11 a.m. -- 10 p.m. Mondays -- Wednesdays; 11 a.m. -- 11 p.m Thursdays -- Saturdays. Lunch specials: 11 a.m. -- 3 p.m. Mondays -Fridays.

Snacks and appetizers, $3 -- $10; soups, $2 -- $20; main dishes and vegetables, $10-$20; desserts, $3.50 -- $6.