First Look: Heirloom Market BBQ in Smyrna

The look: Chef/owners Cody Taylor and Jiyeon Lee have given the cozy space the ambience of a hip Cracker Barrel, reflecting their Heirloom Market theme with pale pine paneling and kitschy touches such as a faux fireplace and a replica of an old-fashioned radio. Seating is at a six-seat communal table or on stools at a pair of slim wooden rails that run around the front and side windows.

The scene: One recent afternoon, the lunch line stretched out the front door and up to the counter, where you place your order and take a number. Jockeying for seats became an amiable game, as diners calculated their party size against the leisurely pace of the kitchen. A happy group of guy-food aficionados chomped ribs while debating barbecue methods.

The menu: It's a mix of Texas and Georgia-style barbecue smoked over pecan, red oak, hickory or fruitwood. Sliced brisket, chopped chicken, pulled or chopped pork, baby back or St. Louis ribs, plus a variety of smoked sausages come as sandwiches or platters with one or two sides. The Texas Trinity combination ($20.50) includes brisket, ribs, sausage and two sides.

The drinks: Order bottles of cane sugar Mexican Coke or the likes of Boylan ginger ale, root beer or creme soda at the counter. Near the open kitchen, there’s self-serve sweet and unsweet iced tea in elegant glass carafes, along with water, ice cubes and lemon slices.

The extras: Look for chef specials, such as Korean short ribs or spicy smoked wings. Everyday sides, including mac-and-cheese, collard greens and barbecue beans, are often joined by daily specials, such as scalloped potatoes or carrots and peaches. Heirloom Market BBQ also offers catering for businesses or private parties.

Dining out

Heirloom Market BBQ

11 a.m. -- 8 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 11 a.m. -- 10 p.m. Fridays -- Saturdays, closed Sundays -- Mondays.

Sandwiches and platters, $6 -- $22; combinations, $13.50 -- $26.50; sides, $2 -- $8.

2243 Akers Mill Road, Smyrna, 770-612-2502,

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