A knockoff of the wildly popular Antico Pizza or simply the latest venue for the talents of peripatetic pizzaiolo Enrico Liberato, Fuoco di Napoli has all the earmarks of a cult Neapolitan pizza joint.
Naples-born Liberato trained in Italy before coming to Atlanta to work at Fritti, then moved on to star at Antico and briefly surfaced at Vingenzo’s in Woodstock. At Fuoco di Napoli (“Fire of Naples”), Liberato has claimed the mantle of “pizza professor” to continue creating signature pies in the certified tradition of the Pizzaiolo Napoletani Associanti.
The look: Tucked away on the quiet side of Pharr Road, in a free-standing building that once housed a Buckhead-style Irish pub/dive bar called McTighe's, Fuoco has the quirky feel of a fun hole in the wall. The open kitchen with its wood-fired oven is the focal point of the space, which is sparsely decorated with pizzaiolo certificates and autographed pizza paddles commemorating the good times of previous parties.
The scene: Order at the front counter and find a place at a booth or communal table. Food runners deliver the goods hot from the oven, while Liberato cruises through the kitchen and the dining room, mixing with his pizza makers and customers. One recent afternoon, the convivial lunch crowd clearly seemed to be enjoying the show.
The menu: The concise chalkboard menu features six pizzas, plus a chef's "surprise" pie ($17), a Neapolitan calzone with ham and salami ($15) and a simple mixed salad ($7). Pizzas start with the classic red, white and green Regina Margherita, with San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, basil and olive oil ($14), and amp up to the Fire of Napoli, with San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, spicy salami, hot peppers, basil and olive oil ($17).
The drinks: The beverage list is equally to the point, with a selection of "specialty bottled drinks" that includes Italian sodas, and still and sparkling waters.
The extras: There's a bargain-priced $9 lunch special every day that includes an individual-size pizza, a small salad and a a chocolate chip cannoli. The website has a link for online ordering, handy for takeout and group lunches.
Dining out
Fuoco di Napoli, Buckhead
11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Closed Sundays.
Pizza and calzone, $13-$17; salad, $7; drinks, $2.50.
30 Pharr Road N.W., 404-781-0707, www.fuocodinapoli.com
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