In the past few months, Delicious Kabob has become the "it" Chinese restaurant among many of Atlanta's dining bloggers and chow hounds. And why not? It has all the essential elements of an under-the-radar find: a convivial hole-in-the-wall atmosphere; a sprawling menu that includes the eponymous kabobs, as well as Northern Chinese and Szechuan dishes; and a chef, Lu Liu, who has become something of a local star.
Kabobs in the window
Tucked away from the multicultural kaleidoscope that makes the Buford Highway restaurant scene so celebrated, Delicious Kabob is in a small strip center on Shallowford Road. Pulling into a parking space in front, you're likely to be greeted by a chef working behind a picture window, smiling and waving, while he cooks up kabobs. Inside, the wide, rectangular space has the generic feel of a community center, with a paneled drop ceiling, tile floors, laminated tables and banquet chairs. But red hanging lanterns, lacquered screens, a bit of Chinese art, and a super karaoke setup help create a suitably quirky aura.
Yummy-numb
Kabobs, priced from $2 to $4, are a great way to get started. The chewy lamb, grilled and served on two large metal skewers, is generously dusted in hot pepper and cumin seeds and has an intense, slightly wild flavor. Order a scallion pancake (a flaky disc cut into pizza-like triangles) to wrap around the meaty hunks. Other "pastry" offerings include pale, silky pork and leek or shrimp dumplings.
Delve into the Szechuan section of the menu with crispy beef — cheese-steak-thin slices, breaded and fried, and piled with cilantro, red chili pods, and peppercorns, which induce that yummy-numb tingle on the lips and tongue. Dry-fried eggplant more resembles frites than the usual limp, soggy stuff; super crispy outside and creamy inside, it's also presented among a heap of pepper pods. Fried chicken, dry-fried shredded pork or beef jerky, and fish or beef boiled in spicy oil, round out the Szechuan offerings.
More to explore
The size of the menu and the portions, plus lots of seating options, make Delicious Kabob perfect for group tastings. Gather at one of the large round tables equipped with a spinning lazy Susan and explore exotic delights — some bound to trouble the squeamish. How about "chicken stomach kabobs" or a cold dish of "pork stomach shreds"? Interesting Northern Chinese items range from shredded tofu cake with celery and pork to water fried lamb. And look for stewed dishes, such as lamb with goji berry and dates.
AT A GLANCE
• Where: 3640 Shallowford Road, Doraville, 770-457-4948
• Signature dish: Lamb kabobs
• Entree prices: $7.50-$12.50
• Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays. Closed Mondays.
• Reservations: For large and private parties
• Credit cards: Yes
About the Author
