DISH OF THE WEEK: Mushroom quiche from Café Vendome
Nextdoor is a resource for more than home repair referrals, crime incident reports and lost cat notices. Folks using this private social network are also tipping neighbors off to nearby food finds.
Thanks to Nextdoor, I now know about Café Vendome, a French bakery-cafe at 4969 Roswell Road in Sandy Springs. While located in the same plaza that houses Food 101 and Cibo e Beve, it’s easy to miss Café Vendome since it’s tucked away in the rear of the building. But it’s worth seeking out, especially for quiche.
Café Vendome offers five quiche varieties: mushroom and onion, chicken, veggie, salmon, and zucchini and goat cheese. All are made in-house, just like its croissants, baguettes, sablés and other baked goods. (Watch the action through the glass window.)
The popular zucchini and goat cheese has been on the menu since the cafe opened a year ago. It’s bright and summery, the filling soft and silky.
But the switch to fall brings the newly debuted mushroom and onion version. Button mushrooms are sautéed long enough to remove the moisture, and sweetened by slow-sweated onions. Rubbery custards are the result of too many eggs; this one is just a bit jiggly, as a good quiche should be.
The pastry shell is buttery and flaky, but what I especially appreciate is the thickness: Too much dough and you forget you’re eating quiche. Here, the savory filling shines through.
A quiche order comes with a side of roasted herbed potatoes or a green salad dressed in a Dijon vinaigrette.
The quiche is the easy choice. Harder: where to sit? At the high-top community table? In the lounge-ish corner with soft seating? On the covered patio surrounded by greenery? I'll take a chair at one of the white marble tables, stare at the mural depicting a public square in Paris and daydream about shopping in the 4th arrondissement.
Café Vendome. 4969 Roswell Road, Sandy Springs. 404-551-5163, cafevendome.com.
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